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Old 09-04-2009, 10:36 AM
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cgt4570 cgt4570 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Mount Carmel, TN USA
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If you are VERY lucky, it will screw in and time correctly (with regard to front sigtht being at 12 o'clock), and be long enough at the barrel-cylinder gap that you can take a little material off the forcing cone to set the gap. Early Smith barrels before sometime in the 80's had a pin to hold them in place and prevent unscrewing. Newer ones are just torqued into the frame.
I've only replaced the pinned ones.
If you aren't lucky, then you have to turn a bit off of the shoulder to allow the barrel to screw into the frame more. (it isn't usually necessary to re-thread the little bit since it's normally less than a full thread). This is done to time the front sight, fit the gap, or both.
If more than that is taken off, then you will probably have to shorten the ejector rod and center pin to fit the relocated locking lug.
I'm no gunsmith, but I've successfully replaced a few barrels using simple tools. I've turned miniscule amounts off by chucking the barrel in my drill press and using a fine file. I've adjusted forcing cone length with a counterbore with brass tubing stock slid over the pilot to protect the rifling. I wouldn't do it myself for a high-end gun, but for a shooter, it worked just fine.
Chris Taylor
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