Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeydio
Be careful with using anything too abrasive on the face of the cylinder, the exit throats should be kept sharp and uniform, like the crown on your barrel's muzzle since they perform a similar function when the revolver is fired. Damage caused by improper cleaning can degrade accuracy. It hurts nothing to leave the powder fouling on. If you need to clean it, soak the cylinder in a solvent or use Slip 2000's Carbon Killer and wipe it off. Let the chemicals do the work.
Mike
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Plus one! The lead removal cloths or any other mild abrasive backed by something flat, like a tongue depressor.
I have found that cleaning thoroughly with MPro7/Hoppe's Elite (and the lead remover cloths at first) then lubricating all the hot spots: cylinder bores, the cylinder face, the forcing cone, inner top strap, recoil shield, and barrel bore with a dry Teflon Lube (Elmer's Slide-All at about $5 a can) makes it easier to clean next time, cylinder face and rear included. Each time is easier, The rest of the metal gets a good gun oil. I use MPro7 Gun Oil, Breakfree CLP, or similar blown thin with compressed air.
Here's a 617 Plus cleaned that way (cylinder front):
617 Cylinder rear:
629 Cylinder front, forcing cone and inner top strap:
And a 547 Cylinder front (blued):
Elmer's Slide-All
