Hello all,

I'm still not sure of anything, but perhaps my old preference for cleaning nickeled guns is the most prudent for cleaning leading out of titanium cylinders: bronze bore brushes with WD 40 for solvent. Of course I wipe off the WD 40 after cleaning because it is not a good gun preservative or lubricant, and like TSQUARED I don't remove the blackened rings around the chamber mouths.

[QUOTE=TSQUARED] I do not believe in attempting to make a gun look new after it has been fired.

Amen.

[QUOTE=TSQUARED] For my ... titanium cylinders I have used ... Hoppes#9.

Paul105’s quote from S&W Customer Service, “No solvent with ammonia should be used.” contradicts TSQUARED’s use of Hoppe’s #9 which contains ammonia. I don’t know if the Break Free CLP that Gearhead Jim wrote he uses contains ammonia, but this raises the question of whether Gearhead Jim’s titanium cylinder face’s coating was degraded by solvents before...

[QUOTE=Gearhead Jim] One box of 110 Magnum loads (in violation of the instrucions in the manual) made the front face of my 340PD cylinder look like it had been attacked by a wood rasp.

Also recall that Allen-frame wrote he used lead remover cloth on the front of his 386Sc’s titanium cylinder and it eroded badly afterward.

I hope this doesn't change the topic to too much petty hair splitting, but...

I'm sorry. I ment to write that all the .40 cal. revolvers S&W has manufactured have titanium cylinders.

Best regards,

Gil