I'm not heating anything real hot, around 130*. I was putting everything in a oven or of all things, just using a hair blow dryer to heat something hot to the touch. I just wanted to open the pores of the metal. Others have heated what they were doing hotter than that. Some people just applied the moly at room temp & let it sit for a couple of days.

Do a search on molybdenum disulfide treatments, you'll find alot of products out there. Bronnell's even sells a moly paste, you should read what they have to say about it. I also like the paste products. They're not expensive & easy to use. I like to use 3 & 1 oil with the paste. The light oil acts as a medium to transfer the moly to the metal. I dilute the moly paste in the oil, the oil/moly solution has very little moly in it & looks like oil with a coloring added to it. The other moly/oil solution I use is like a runny paste, it has more moly paste in it than oil.

It's a simple enough process to apply moly to something. I heat the metal & apply a coat of the moly oil to the surface of the metal getting it wet. Then I use the moly/oil paste, put some of it on a cloth & rub the paste into the metal. I rub it till the metal cools & then I repeat the process again. It normally takes 3 to 4 treatments for the moly to be built up enough in the pores of the metal to make a excellent lubricating film on the metal that will last.

Anyone who's interested in what moly can do to metal should buy some 3 in 1 oil & some moly paste to give it a try. It'll cost around $10 for the paste & oil. Grab some scrap metal & give it a try by treating a small area on that scrap metal. You'll be amazed of how much smoother/slicker the metal is where you treated it compared to the plain steel. You'll also be able to visually see the difference in the metal. The treated area will be a little darker than the non treated area.

If you want to have a real eye opener, get a small section of steel pipe. Heat in up & get a tight fitting patch on the end of a cleaning rod. I mean tight, so tight you can hardly push the tight patch threw the pipe without pounding on the end of the cleaning rod with a hammer. Put some of the moly oil on the patch & get the inside of that pipe coated with the oil. Then put the moly paste on that tight patch & run that back & forth in the pipe. You will feel when the moly starts working, that patch that would barely go threw the pipe will easily slide threw it as the moly starts to coat the inside on that pipe. That's what it's like when I treat my bbl's, trigger groups, ect.

For $10 give it a try on some scrap metal, if you like what you see try it on a firearm. If your not sure start out with a old beater pistol. Take that pistol out & shoot 4 to 500 rounds of lead ammo in it & give good cleaning. Then treat the bbl, cylinder face & throat, the top strap & forcing cone area. Than it out & shoot another 4 to 500 rounds of lead ammo threw it. Take it home & clean it again, you'll be amazed at how much easier it is to clean after treating the pistol with moly.

The only thing that I've found that can be harmfull when treating firearms with a moly solution is treating the chamber areas. DON'T DO IT!!!! The throat & bbl's on rifles,yes. Just not the chamber itself. The same thing with semi-auto pistols. NOT THE CHAMBER!!! With revolvers I treat the front of the cylinders & from the flame cut circles forward in the cylinders themselves. NOT THE WHOLE CHAMBERS IN THE CYLINDERS!!!

You can get away with treating the whole chamber/cylinders on firearms that shoot rimfires because of the low pressure of that round. Anything that has a high chamber pressure (mags, hp rifle ect) needs the shell casing to grab the side walls of the chamber. Treating that area with moly make it sooooo slippery that the shell case can't grab the chamber walls & bad things can happen.

When I treat my bbls/cylinders with moly, I use never dull afterwards to clean the areas where I don't want the moly just incase any moly accidently got on those areas. If your not sure about never dull, treat a scrap piece of metal with moly & the clean the moly off with the never dull. You can visually see and feel that the never dull will remove the moly.

Good luck, enjoy & be safe