Do NOT "glass bead-blast" per DuraCoat's instructions. It leaves a "polished" surface. If you want to blast the slide (not necessary according to DC) use alum oxide powder. If you suspect the previous surface may have been glass-blasted, or there are scratches, etc. that will show through, then you might have it redone with the AL Oxide.

I've DuraCoated two CZ-82 that also have the "blasted" finish and both turned out okay. The secret is entirely the prep. I cannot emphasis that enough. I had a couple of issues (peeling) on the first one due to insufficient prep. Degrease, sand as needed wipe down--DO NOT re-degrease. Once that was corrected, the paint stuck well to both rough and polished surfaces.

Carefully tape the dovetail surfaces and you'll be fine. It tedious work using an Exacto knife or razor blade, but will preserve the machined surfaces. The green painters tape will prevent the paint from seeping underneath.

If you make mistakes (drips, runs, etc.) don't panic. Common paint remover takes DC right off. I'd never used an airbrush, so my first attempt was a bit messy.

Definitely let the finish cure. I set my -82 aside for 2 mos afterwards. No issues with the finish after several range outings.

If you don't have the equipment (I didn't) or painting skills (me neither) or simply don't want to mess it up, there are many places out there that will do it for you at a reasonable cost.

Any questions, PM me.

Formerly from Spokane.