Quote:
Originally Posted by 38-44HD45
Lots of folks don't really get the issue of spring balance in 1911-types. Slide velocity is primarily controlled by the mainspring, not the recoil spring. If you use a full-strength mainspring (23 lbs.) you can get by with a lighter recoil spring than if you use a lighter mainspring. Basic, John Browning/Milspec setup is a 23 lb. mainspring and a 16 lb. recoil spring, though lots of commercial Colts have had 17lb. recoil springs. One pound doesn't matter very much.
Lots of gunsmiths install a 17-19 lb. mainpsring, mostly to make it easier to obtain a light trigger. The 18-18.5 lb. recoil springs that are so often recommended for "hardball equivalent" loads presume a light mainspring.
One can install an EGW flat-bottom firing pin stop and get by with both a light mainspring and a lighter recoil spring, since the EGW stop delays unlocking a bit and thereby retards slide velocity some. I've learned much about spring balance converting 9x19 1911-types to 9x23. In my 3" Ultra Aegis conversions, I use a 25 lb. mainspring, an EGW firing pin stop, and the standard Kimber .45 recoil spring assembly (about 21 lbs.). In the 5" Aegis guns, I use the EGW stop, a 19-21 lb. mainspring and an 18 lb. recoil spring.
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Did not know any of that.
Kinda brings me to my other question I had. How can I go about increasing (yes increasing) my trigger pull on this gun. I shoot a lot of other guns, revolvers and striker fire weapons. This trigger on the DW Pointman is too light for me. Most I guess would strive for this trigger but it is too hairy for me. I prefer the trigger on my S&W 1911 which is just a bit heavier.
Do I need to replace the sear, hammer(both as a set), mainspring or what?
I have the ability to do it, just not sure which approach to take.