I started doing action jobs on S&W and Colt SAA revolvers about 30 years ago, and the first one I did turned out to be a disaster, and I wound up replacing both the hammer & trigger. Back in those days, parts were EASY to get and fairly inexpensive. I have pretty much gotten things down to a science now and have had no ill effects for quite some time now, but IMHO stoning the hammer & trigger is just NOT necessary! All that is usually required to drastically smooth out and lighten up a Smith is the following, and I would suggest doing this ONLY on a dedicated TARGET gun, (NOT on a personal defense gun).

* change factory rebound spring to a lighter Wolf spring (do not cut original)

* Get another main spring tension screw so you can remove a slight amount of metal from it, lightening the main spring tension - fully tighten modified screw

* remove any burrs if they exist on internals ONLY if they are interfering with the action movements. DO NOT REMOVE ANYMORE THAN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY

* Thoroughly clean and lightly lubricate the internal parts with REMOIL. Remoil is very thin, will not gunk up the works, leaves a Teflon coating on the metal, and is an excellent lubricant and rust preventative.

* Shoot the **** out of the gun! Anything that you missed will smooth out in short order after firing a fair amount of rounds.

* For the most part, stoning and modifying metal parts inside a revolver is counter productive unless you are a world class competitive shooter and have easy access to all kinds of parts, and have a REAL gun smithing background.

That's my .02 cents.........

regards,
chief38