Coupla suggestions when reloading for the .460. First off, altho most scoff at the idea of trimming handgun brass, I always trim my virgin or once fired factory .460 brass before reloading it the first time to assure my crimps are consistent. This helps to keep ignition consistent with slow ball powders like H110/W296. It also keeps bullets from jumping under recoil from a light crimp due to a short case. After the first reloading, I keep cases separated by batch to assure cases are still close to the same length and will occasionally measure them to confirm this.

Second, altho I seat and crimp in one step with my other magnums, with the .460 I do it in two steps. The heavy roll crimp required to hold the bullets under recoil and the long length of the case is asking for buckled cases when doing it in one step. Especially when using Hornady brass.

Even with carbide dies, I will lightly lube the cases when resizing. This keeps me from having to stand on the press lever and makes it easier on the brass itself. With jacketed bullets bell only enough to get the bullet started to help with neck tension. In my X-frame, when working up loads, I've found that it does not take much sometimes to go from easy extraction to having to pound out the empties with a dowel. Start low and work up in SMALL increments. If your cases are stickin' back off. Flattened primers in the .460 are a norm, so don't be surprised to get them even with mid-level loads. With the power and velocities produced by the .460 Magnum cartridge, there really is no reason other than dangerous game to load it HOT.