I learned my lesson when it comes to reducing the power of the rebound slide spring in a J-frame.

Some years ago, before I decided to become a revolver armorer myself, I had the former revolver armorer check out a new 642-1 I'd bought. He smoothed it up, inspecting tolerances and removing a couple burred spots.

I also picked up a kit of reduced power springs and we tried them in my 642. The lightest spring in the kit wouldn't allow the trigger to recover forward. (Not good.) The next heavier one allowed for trigger recovery most of the time. (Still not good.) The heaviest of the lighter springs allowed for consistent trigger recovery. So, thinking we were good to go, that's the one that remained in my new off-duty 642. I began carrying it and doing a lot of training & practice with it.

Some time later, after I'd knocked the rust off my DA revolver skills and had acclimated myself to the little gun, I started to notice that my trigger finger was able to "outrun" the trigger's recovery when doing fast shot strings. Uh oh. Basically, the trigger wasn't returning forward fast enough for it to be recovered and ready for my next shot when my finger was ready for the next trigger press when doing rapid shot strings.

So, I replaced the aftermarket rebound slide spring with the stock factory spring. Now there was no way I was able to "outrun" the trigger's recovery. The recovery was consistently brisk and firm. Since I'd been spending a lot of range time with the gun, now I could feel the difference between the aftermarket and factory springs when it came to the speed and firmness of the trigger's recovery. No more "target" springs for me in one of my defensive guns.

For a dedicated "target/range" revolver I'd have no problem lightening spring tension ... but not for a revolver which was going to be kept, carried and potentially used for dedicated defensive purpose. Not anymore.

Another thing to consider is that while a lighter spring may offer sufficient power when a particular gun is clean and it's being used under "ideal" circumstances, the lighter spring may lack the necessary power to function the gun under "less than ideal" circumstances. Think of how the parts may become "gummed up" from fouling, congealed lubrication or unexpected environmental contaminants (like when dropped in the dirt, sand, ocean waves or a stream).

A lighter spring which may work well enough under perfect conditions may fail under bad conditions.

Why risk it with a dedicated defensive revolver?

J-frames have stout coil main springs and rebound slide springs which result in rather heavy trigger pulls. The small, shortened grip and trigger reach don't help.

That time I discovered I was able to "outrun" my trigger on my 642 when doing fast shooting drills made an impression on me, though, and I decided I'd rather put up with the heavy springs and work to "improve" myself. Yes, some injuries and minor nerve damage in one hand made it more difficult than I'd have wished ... but it eventually paid off.

I remember another time many years ago when I sent another revolver (of another make) off to a well known and respected gunsmithing company for a "duty tune". It was a medium-framed 4" revolver which I often carried off-duty.

Part of the tune package was a reduced power mainspring. After voicing my hesitation about possibly compromising the inherent reliability of being able to ignite any brand of .357 Magnum ammunition I may be using, and being told that good quality ammunition ought to work in it afterward ... as soon as the gun was returned (with the lighter spring), I immediately replaced it with the factory mainspring, anyway. I'd heard of too many other examples of similar guns sometimes failing to fire once lighter mainsprings had been installed, and I just didn't feel like taking the chance since it was an off-duty weapon.

So, while I may inspect and "deburr" new J-frames I buy for carry usage nowadays, I stick with the stock factory springs.

Just my thoughts.

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Ret LE Firearms inst & armorer