Quote:
Originally Posted by ultratec00
I just wanted to make sure adding aftermarket items wouldn't be an issue. Some companies like being "special" and forcing the end user to come back to the mothership to buy pieces and parts.
I'm not familiar enough with ARs to build one from scratch. When I first bought the M&P, wasn't going to trick it out much. After playing with it for a bit, decided it would make a good varmint control tool, but not with the stock trigger. I just happened across the DPMS upper on sale. I'll keep the M&P upper w/ iron sights and the DPMS upper w/ a scope.
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From my experience:
0) If you're going to remove the front sight post, it's important to remember that S&W installs the sight retaining pins from the *wrong* side of the rifle (at least they did up to a year or so ago.
1) Don't bother with anti-rotation pins until and if you have a problem with the hammer pin walking out of the lower. The anti-rotation pins drag on the trigger because they don't rotate, making for a heavier trigger. Of course, the drop in trigger modules may work better because they don't actually ride on the pins.
2) The Magpul mag release lever is pretty convenient. Not necessary, but convenient nonetheless. Both of my ARs have one.
3) The Magpul enhanced trigger guard is only useful if you have to wear rather bulky gloves. Both of my ARs have one.
4) Tactical latches - I got a badger one that sticks WAY out and don't really like it, but it's better than the stock one.
5) Get the CTR stock. The stock release leaver on the MOE stock hangs out and catches on stuff. The CTR stock also appears to be a slightly tighter fit. Yours will be a MilSpec version.
6) MagPul PMags - that's all I use. I prefer the 20's with a ranger loop on them (you can see one on my scratch-built rifle, above) but have over a dozen 30's (and 20's). The ranger loop is kinda pointless on the 30's because the mag is already pretty long.
7) Get rid of the rear sight and get a Troy folding sight.
8) I also replaced my standard FSP with a Yankee-hill flip-up front sight/gas block.
9) If you want to replace the BCG with a full-auto (M-16) version, you will also need to replace your buffer and action spring. I use a H2 buffer with a Sprinco "Blue" action spring.
10) Regarding the BCG, you do NOT need to spend the money on the ones with fancy coatings. On a frequently-used gun, the coating won't last long. All you have to do is make sure the gas key is properly staked, and the carrier and bot are both magnafluxed and shotpeened. A decent quality full-auto (M-16) BCG shouldn't cost you more than $120.
11) Go to Wal-Mart and buy 100 rounds (five boxes) of TulAmmo. Shoot all 100 rounds in one range visit. If you experience no jamming or FTF issues, that's GREAT. My M&P shoots it just fine, so that's what I practice with. I buy it 1000 rounds at a time from Cheaper Than Dirt. The last time I bought a case, it was just $189. I think it's $219 now, so there might be better deals out there. If you insist on shooting brass, M193 or M855 are perfect for the rifle.
12) If you want to keep the non-floating handguard,try out a MOE one. I personally like the shape of it better than the standard round one.
13) Replace your flash hider. I use a Smith Enterprises Vortex G6-A2 on my S&W, and a DragonBrake on my scratch-built rifle. I prefer the DragonBrake for noise, but I've never shot it at night, so I don't know how well it hides the flash.