Quote:
Originally Posted by campfire
I have been curious about the Remington jet for some time and occasionally I browse through some of the auction sites on the internet looking at the different ones on offer. (I nearly choke when I see the prices the sellers are hoping to get).
I suppose if I wanted to buy a 22 I could settle for a Model 17 or a 617 but I particularly like the look of the Jet with the 8 3/8” barrel and the half under-lug; The actual Jet cartridge doesn’t appeal to me so much because I think I may have difficulty getting reloading components for it but I am sure it would be a fine gun for plinking in 22 Long.
I have noticed that some guns were manufactured with a Jet cylinder and supplied with 22 Long inserts and others are made with the Jet cylinder and an additional interchangeable 22 Long cylinder.
Can someone here tell me;
If the Jet is a centrefire cartridge, is the same firing pin used to set-off the rimfire 22 Long or is there some alteration to the hammer so this can happen.
Campfire
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I purchased an 8 3/8" barrel Model 53 in 1962 which I still have along with an additional 6" which I purchased approximately 25 years ago. The Model 53's came with and without the extra separate 22 rim-fire cylinder. At the time of purchase the majority came with only the Jet cylinder and the inserts and if you wanted the extra 22 rim-fire cylinder frequently the dealer had to special order the 53 with the extra rim-fire cylinder from S&W. It took me approximately 6 months to obtain my 8 3/8" on special order through Gil Hebbard (a large volume dealer).
With the Jet having a potential velocity similar to the 22 Hornet, there is a significant loss for every 0.01" increase in the cylinder/sizing cone gap. This loss is approximately 5% of the velocity for every 0.01" increase in the distance between the cylinder and the sizing cone. (This distance can easily be measured by using an ignition feeler gauge, and should never exceed 0.08") I have obtained some newer wheel guns with a distance of 0.09" - including some Smith's. I never purchase a revolver without taking my ignition feeler gauge to the gun shop and check everything out. ( This can annoy some gun dealers, particularly if you tell them they have a worthless revolver). I WOULD STRONGLY RECOMMEND A PURCHASER DOING THIS.
When I received my 8 3/8" the gaps were 0.08-0.09" and I considered that inadequate and poor quality. I wrote to S&W about the problem and they had me return the gun for alteration. When I received if back all gaps were 0.02, which probably gained me approx. 125 feet per second muzzle velocity. With the smaller gaps there is also a lot less flash at the head of the cylinder. Toward dusk or on a dark day this flash from a large gap can be very visually disturbing. I did not return the 6'', which came without the auxiliary rim-fire cylinder as I bought it used but like new and it has c/sc gaps of 0.06"-0.07"
One problem with the bottle neck case is that the case very frequently backs up on firing and locking up the cylinder so that it will not turn. This problem can be eliminated by carrying a small bottle of ethyl alcohol or acetone and some cotton tipped applicators and swabbing out the cylinder after a couple of rounds have been fired from the each of the six sites. WORKS GREAT!!!!
In regard to the hammer there is a selector cam/pivot that must be moved to determine if you want to fire rim-fire or center-fire.
Needless to say despite it's idiosyncrasies, I love my 53's and find them to be accurate, interesting and of a quality that you don't see in Smith's today.