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Old 01-27-2012, 01:21 PM
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bryan87 bryan87 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Denver, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman View Post
Which dash number is your 686? I ask because the firing pin I spoke of works only with -5 and newer. Dash 4 and older have the hammer-mounted pin.
Andy, I have a 686+-6 (2010) as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snowman View Post
You also may want to check out a company called Apex (I believe). I'm told that they also make an extended pin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowrider View Post
4) The C&S pins are good but you can't dryfire practice without snapcaps. Get the Apex, it's made out of hardened tool steel. Actually the factory pins are fine but if you want an extended the Apex is the way to go.
Well, that is two votes for Apex so I will most certainly have to compare them to the C&S firing pins.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TNFrank View Post
Of course I polish up the internal parts and clean and lube everything and I keep my guns clean. If you're inclined not to clean or lube your guns then maybe you'd need a heavier rebound spring but if you slick em' up you can get by with a lighter spring without problems.
Frank, I actually went in to clean my new 29-2 that was pretty dirty from its previous owner and after some CLP and oil on the internals, it is like a new trigger. I am sold on keeping all aspects of my firearms clean both to satisfy my OCD and due to the extreme difference in DA trigger pull I noticed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowrider View Post
3) Install the lightest rebound when reassembling. Set your mainspring tension first. I grind the screw down to the length that gives reliable ignition every time and bottom it out in the frame. Once you have that done check the trigger return (do this with the side plate on). This where the "balance" comes in. Good positive trigger return may require one of the heavier springs. Once you have this and it's all back together remove the strain screw and reinstall torquing it down with about 10 in/lb using blue loc-tite.
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Notes:
When setting your mainspring tension fire some rounds. Not just 10 or so, run about 100 through it. Also add about 1/4 turn of tension for insurance and while firing make sure it's not moving, because it will! If it's moving you don't know where you are. I set the screwdriver slot either up & down or straight across and always adjust in 1/4 turn increments for this very reason.

The Miculek video is a great home trigger job, but there are other things to do to get a great custom action, but you can make a huge improvement just by following this video.

Use a blue steel strain screw. The stainless ones are super soft and deform badly.
Shadow, this is phenomenal information. I have noticed that my mainsprings do all sorts of things to the strain screw on their own accord. I will most definitely order a blue steel strain screw. Thanks for all of your detailed suggestions on setting up the mainspring and rebound spring!

I will go with the Wolff kit based on what you gentlemen have suggested as well as an apex extended firing pin and a steel strain screw. I am even more excited to learn from Jerry's video now after the overwhelmingly positive feedback that keeps pouring in.
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