I mentioned that gunsmiths that do a lot of action work on S&W revolvers learn to tune and re-shape the factory main springs. This is an involved process and must be done correctly over a wooden plug ( mold ) . If done wrong your throw away the spring and start over most of the time. This is not however something that you, for the most part, can do yourself unless you have somebody show you .

Therefore I would not recommend and in fact would advise not trying to bend your factory main spring. I wonder how you have determined if you are getting light hits or perhaps something else is going on. You mentioned the spring you took out was " really curved " so I sort of assume somebody got in their and worked on it. Whether the job was done right or not is hard to say even with a photo since there are many other things involved in setting up the hammer and spring. But it could be you had a nice action job there and somebody backed off or swapped out the strain screw and knocked everything out of kilter. Most of the time a spring is tuned then the strain screw is filed to a specific length to give the hammer the correct amount of pull and hit force. This screw is then Loctited for the needs of the shooter, i.e., type of load, primer and shooting sport or use.

You may just need to get a new full length strain screw and start over and screw it in and play with it until you get reliable ignition and trim it and Loctite. If that doesn't work and there are other problems then perhaps something else is going on here but I wouldn't presume to guess from here.

If you have a good quality trigger pull gauge or like instrument you can check the hammer pull which on yours without a target hammer should be 56 oz for 357 mag or 52 oz for 38 special.

Good luck