I just brought one home from my LGS. After I popped the sideplate to take a look see and clean/lube it (it's a Marine thing), I came away impressed.

I also have a 325TRR that I like, so the new-fangled "UnObtainium" framed revolvers are okay. I do like the P&R'd guns most, however (I have a 19-3 and 66 no dash).

One thing that strikes me is the all-business aura of the R8. I mounted a Hogue N-Frame R/B Monogrip with a Hamilton Bowen screw-in lanyard ring (it takes the place of the grip screw) that was Gray Armor-Tuff'd by Wilson Combat. It adds to the all-business look and adds utility.

I like the gun VERY much and am anxious to run some Magnums through her. I did find that when I pulled her apart, that her insides were drier that a popcorn fart. There was NO lubrication on her guts whatsoever.

She will be smoothed up in the coming weeks by my gunsmith. After she comes back, I will send the trigger off to Mag-Na-Port to have their Combat Trigger modification done. After I get the trigger back, the trigger, hammer and rebound slide will be NP3 Plus'd by the good folks at ROBAR in The Valley of the Sun.

Next, her front sight will be sent off to Tool Tech in Michigan to get a Trijicon Tritium vial installed. After that, I think she'll qualify to be a "fighting revolver".

The 5-inch tube is hard to adjust to. I normally go for 3 and 4-inch tubes. I'm confident that she'll be accurate. I thought I read that the barrels (not the shrouds) are made by Walther. I do like the muzzle-heavy feel. It points well.

As for feeding her, I may use the full moons, but most of my shooting will involve the 5-Star speedloaders. The cost is high (@$25-$27/ea), but not nearly as high as the ones that Clint Smith advertises on his website ($65/ea). I've heard some decent reports about the 5-Star loaders. As a lifelong HKS/Safariland user, their reverse release will take some getting used to. I think the speedloader is the easier way to go, rather than fumbling with the wiggly rounds. They don't load as fast as their .45 ACP cousins.

My intent for this revolver is to be a duty gun, should I get back into LE work. As for a duty holster, Shelley Brown at Ted Blocker can make up her excellent SP202 revolver holster for me (with extra welt rivets). They can make up almost any holster for any gun.

For a utility/range holster, I want the steel and leather Ted Blocker Thunder ($125), but 'Mama Bear' would be angry. I opted for the less-expensive Safariland 567 for the 5-inch S&W N-Frame ($45). I use their 568 belt loop for a custom fit on my Mitch Rosen belts. Wilson Combat also sells the same belt loop, albeit in thick cowhide/kydex, vice the Safari-Laminate. The 567 Adjust-A-Fit holster is a cheaper alternative than the Ted Blocker/Alessi/Sidearmor, Blade-Tech or Simply Rugged models.

If there's any misfires (due to it being Kalifornia-Kompliant), I will get the Apex firing pin kit, as I hear they're better than the C&S pins. Not sure, but the 3 C&S pins I've installed in my late-model Smiths have been decent.

Last thing: Not sure if anybody else does it, but any new (or new to me) firearm that I get, now gets a rub-down with FLITZ. I use either the paste (silver tube) or the liquid (black bottle at any auto parts store). FLITZ is AWESOME. It removes corrosion (yes there's some) on blued (and stainless too!) guns. On the Scandium and painted guns (325TRR and R8), FLITZ removes any surface impurities and imbues the surfaces with a nice baby-soft finish. It's safe on firearms finishes.