Quote:
Originally Posted by MichiganScott
If you really feel that they need help, use some anti-seize compound on the screws. Not only does it make it easier to remove them when you need to, it helps keep them from backing out if torqued to spec.
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Please, please don't do this. The reason they won't back out with this method is that you've greatly over torqued the screws.
Anti-seize is a kind of lubricant. Unless the manufacturer specifically states to use anti-seize, the torque values are for dry screws/bolts.
Torque is a measure of twisting force. The friction created by the increased surface area of a screw is a factor in determining the correct torque value. Because anti-seize reduces the amount of friction, the actual force applied by the screw, when tightened to the recommended torque, is greatly increased.
I have seen wheel lugs snapped off before the recommended torque value was reached because anti-seize was put on the lugs.
So, don't use anti-seize on bolts or screws or nuts when torquing to the manufacturer's spec.
Now, to keep your scope tight, but not over tight, try this....
Mount the scope and go through the pain staking process of getting the reticle level. Then head to the range and fire two shots.
Check the scope ring screws.
Fire 5 shots.
Check the scope ring screws again.
Fire 10 shots.
Check the ring screws again, but they should be good by now.
Doing this helps settle the parts. Any movement that was going to happen, has happened. By doing it incrementally like this, you get it tight before the scope can move out of place. So, do this first, then zero the scope. If you have a quality scope and quality rings, it will stay zeroed for years to come.