I suppose there are a plethora of ways to achieve a lighter trigger and smoother action. Some "more correct" or more acceptable than others. Some frown about certain procedures while others have had great success with them. Here is what works perfectly for me........

What I have found that works spectacular for me is to disassemble the entire revolver, clean, de-burr, polish (ONLY if needed) & lightly lube. I then change the Rebound Spring- usually to 12 pounds (I do not just cut the original) and I shorten the length of the Strain Screw. After tuning a few Revolvers, one should develop "a feel" for what the correct screw length is. Of course actual testing with all kinds of loads is the real proof! Always make sure the shortened screw is tightened - NEVER leave a Factory length screw backed out or loose to put less strain on a Spring. This procedure has worked incredibly well for me over 35 years and I have NEVER had to change the Factory Main Spring except for one that snapped unexpectedly many years ago.

I am certainly NOT saying that changing the Main Spring is necessarily a bad thing - just something I have never needed to do. Some after market Main Springs give the Revolver a twangy/tinny sound which I dislike immensely and I have never experienced that with Factory Springs. Factory springs always fit perfectly and I have seen after market ones that were a bit off or sloppy. So that is what works for me on K,L and N Frames. For J's I simply clean, de-burr, polish (if needed) lightly lube and replace the Rebound Spring with a lighter one but one that still allows a quick and positive trigger return. I have never felt the need to lighten up or replace the Coil Main Spring and especially because I deem my J's as CCW guns and want a good strong primer hit - no exceptions. Even though my J's might be a little heavier (but still quite smooth) than some of the finely tunes J's some might have, I have never found it a problem hitting my target accurately in either single or double action mode. YMMV