My NIB 617 would only fire around 50 rds before locking up. Action would become very stiff, very dirty, failure to eject smoothly. One cylinder was horribly out of spec vs. the SAMMI reamer and would not fully seat a .22lr without mashing it in, the others were just cleaned up.

- I am not a good smith but the reaming job was very easy to do.

- After reaming, I could complete a range session with several hundred rds
and all was good. Action would not lock up, rounds would insert and eject
smoothly.

- I installed various spring configurations but have not got the magic lb spring combo yet so Its all back to stock except for the home action job.

- gained some good experience doing the reaming and now will do it on my various other pistols (686, Ruger Bisley, 586, 60-10)

* I attempted just a honing polishing of the cylinders using the Flex-Hone Pistol Cylinder Hone 38 Special 357 Mag 800 Grit 800 and 400 grit on my 60-10 but honestly...I believe if the cases stick...you might as well ream and not waste time on trying to hone. The hone is just to clean up a bit, I think the honing helped more with reducing powder residue build up in cylinders than anything else.

*Do it after you get the pistol back to ensure they went through their checks.