Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastbolt
Unless the smith has the factory bar gauge and a Wagner force dial gauge (with the correct hooked attachment to pull against the extractor hook and check for the deflection point), it's guesswork to check the fit of a new extractor and the proper spring tension. There are 3 different extractor springs that might be used for the average 3rd gen .40, to get the extractor spring in the right tension range (and a 4th one if we're talking about one of the 411's).
The thick rubber Hogue grips can sometimes lend themselves to pushing the web of the strong hand (of someone with fleshy hands) far enough under the hammer to result in hammer bite. The thumb and finger positioning can shift under the snappy recoil of the .40, and sometimes belatedly lift up to touch something (slide, slide stop, mag catch button) as the gun is recoiling back downward ... and this isn't often "felt" by the shooter. It takes an observant instructor to catch this sort of thing while watching the shooter's grip (not the target).
If you call and speak with Fred at the Texas warranty station, he might decide it's a possible warranty issue and arrange for free shipping. Dunno, especially since some non-factory gunsmith has already done something with the extractor, but it can't hurt to call and ask about it.
Otherwise, you can continue the trial & error method and hope it works at some point. 
BTW, going to heavier recoil springs also means the slide running forward into battery harder. This means the slide stop pin is going to probably have some additional force hitting it over time. Nothing wrong with the factory spring rating, though. |
yeah just to give you guys an update I went to the range with 18 and 20 pound LB springs in addition to the 17 factory and I had some odd issues with the 18, as the 20 was too heavy to fit into the gun and compress.
and I had a weird lockback issue on one of the rounds with the 18 where it fully locked the pistol back on a full magazine after one round, so I went back to the 17. and it seemed to work fine although I still had the odd stove piping
and I had one round that got hung up on the feedramp when trying to load the pistol, a semi wadcutter FMJ and in checking it and feeling around where the rounds feed it seems like theirs abit of a sharp edge in there.
so I think it needs a feed ramp/reliability package to rub it down abit given this and it would explain why no matter what I do it still shows up from time to time.
like maybe when mine was made the machining for the thing was still quite sharp and new at the smith and wesson factory and it indavertantly caused the issue with the thing, as I bought it used but it didnt seem that used really.
as it reminds me of a story on here with a PPK/S in Stainless Steel where the guy tried everything in a very similar manner to what I did and couldnt get the thing to work, and he just passed it off to his daughter, naturally telling her of the issue with it, she takes it to a gunsmith and he gives its feedramp abit of a polish and a work over and then it starts working fine.
to the point where she wants to give it back to the dad given he really did like the thing and couldnt get it working and he passes as he's just up and done with the thing.
and it makes sense as the stainless steel of the early to late 80's and the very early 90's is abit rough compared to what it is now, and even then its not quite as malleable as normal steel, as every stainless gun I've ever handled has been abit on the rough side compared to its normal steel brethren.