Thanks, guys, I'm learning a lot here.
I've been looking at the "Project 616" thread, and I'm glad I don't have to bore out a barrel & cylinder
The barrel & cylinder was a lucky find, from a very unlucky guy. He had a new 16-4 that he wanted fitted with a different barrel.
The "gunsmith" managed to break the frame of the gun as he removed the barrel (!). He lost the will to tinker with it, and I gained from that, although I feel sorry for the guy.
From the pictures in this thread,
Some Combat Masterpiece eye candy , I think i see the "scallops" on the frame that blends the frame to a narrower barrel/rib.
I'm not sure if I understand "tennexplorers" comment on "preferably the 14 (because of the cylinder lug on the frame)", is that a new twist I need to look out for?
What I have so far is:
A non-recessesed 19 is the best. I'm not sure how I recognize these - would the barrel pin go away at the same time as the countersunk chambers?
A 15-4(5?) is OK, but I'm not sure what to look for.
In
15-6- Major changes??? i found this:
15-4 (1977): Change to put gas ring from yoke to cylinder.
15-5 (1982): Pinned barrel eliminated
Is it one of those changes that makes the later 15's a better choice?
A 14 is a good choice, says some, but I'm not sure what to look for, unless I go for a late full-underlug, I'm assuming that's a solid bet.
This is fun, and I'm learning a lot. For those wondering - I have Ruger sp101 snub in .327 Mag that is a joy, and I'm looking for the same fun in a 6" "target".