Use it first. If it is smooth and works, do not try to fix something that isn't broken.

Everything that needs "inspection" as far as safety and armorer type checks can be done without removal of the sideplate. There are more, but these are ones that I routinely do on a revolver.

DO NOT DO ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE CHECKED TO MAKE SURE THE REVOLVER IS UNLOADED. AFTER YOU HAVE CHECKED IT, CHECK IT TWO MORE TIMES.

Make sure the screws are snug, including the mainspring strain screw, which MUST be screwed right down. Do not back it off at all. Obviously, to inspect the strain screw, you must remove the stocks. When you do so, it will allow you to check the plate screw that is under the stock to make sure it is snug.

Timing and push-off can be tested externally, and you can make sure the hammer block is working properly by cocking slowly and at the same time view the internals with a bright light through the top as the hammer is brought back slowly. You can see the hammer block dropping out of place. Likewise, you can see it rising back into place as the hammer is slowly lowered (you have to let the trigger go forward as the hammer is being lowered - if you hold the trigger back while lowering the hammer, the hammer block will stay in its "down" position to allow the weapon to fire.

You can visually make certain the firing pin is protruding through its bushing in the bolster face by opening the cylinder, holding the thumb piece to the rear and dry firing the revolver. A hammer mounted firing pin (hammer nose) will remain protruding through as long as you hold the trigger back.

The frame mounted type does not come through very far, and it should retract back after firing as it should have a spring which is compressed when firing. (This spring is easily lost by an inexperienced person who takes the revolver apart, so it is essential to check this.) An alternative test for the frame mounted firing pin is a pencil dropped, eraser first, into the barrel, and when you dry fire, the pencil should fly up. Do not allow your eye or face, or anything else to get in front of the pencil.

You can check to make certain the firing pin spring is in place by opening the cylinder, pointing the weapon straight down, and let gravity do its thing. If the firing pin protrudes, then the spring is missing or has been weakened by a "kitchen table gunsmith" for some reason.

An alternative test is to open the cylinder, hold the thumb piece back, and then fire the weapon pointing it straight down. The firing pin spring will cause the firing pin to recede back into the frame even against gravity. If the firing pin spring is not present, the firing pin will not recede back.

Finally, you can check to make certain that the spring that keeps forward tension on the hand has not become dislodged from behind the stud on the hand by opening the cylinder, use the tip of a pin to push the hand back into the frame a little, and it should spring forward so that it sits flush with its window opening in the bolster face.

BE SURE TO DO ALL OF THESE TESTS/INSPECTIONS WITH AN UNLOADED REVOLVER.