Thanks, everyone, for the excellent feedback. You have taken of your time to respond to me, now I will return the favor.

gmborkovic, JSR III and lamarw: You’ve provided sound advice for dealing with the rust spots. Because those spots are hidden under the grips, my primary concern is not so much their total removal but rather preventing any further spreading. I’ll forgo the steel wool and use less aggressive methods.

rct269: Thanks for the significant addition to my bluing process description.

model3sw: I appreciate your well-articulated perspective on this topic. Really good information there.

hondo44: Sounds like you totally get me. Excellent point about the variations to the finishes over time and across models as well.

My thinking has always been that were I to have this .44 re-blued it would have to be a “restoration” to as original a condition as currently possible, and I would be happy to pay the premium for that. That’s why my first choice was the S&W factory. As an aside, last year I had one of my Pythons restored by Colt, and the result was a finish identical to that of my other pristine original.

Fords and Glenrock have been on my radar for a few years now as a result of my interest in collecting custom 1911s. Both have solid reputations in that arena, but modern high-end 1911s aren’t vintage revolvers – there’s a heck of difference. I have had single action revolvers refinished by Turnbull in charcoal blue with case colors, but they are not specialists in high polish, bright blue double action revolver restorations.

I am a bit leery of a complete re-polish, unless performed by a consummate professional. I have seen total mirror finish bluing on 1911s from the likes of Baron, etc. While they were visually stunning, upon close inspection the sharp edges can easily be lost and the roll marks and stampings can be softened. I was thinking more along the lines of correcting any surface blemishes and then a period correct re-blue. I have learned here that there are problems and variables in trying to get that accomplished.

My goal is to have at least one really bitchin’ looking Pre-Model 29. I don’t mind paying the going rate for a 98+% one either, because that is the price of playing this game right now. I would also pay the fat premium to get a “factory original restoration”, if there were a shop that everyone agrees could guarantee me that.

A lot of you have made the point that if my gun were in worse condition than it is, then little would be lost, historically speaking, with a re-finish. But my .44 is not that bad ... and some of you are wrestling with this same conundrum.

As I re-read all of your advice (and it is all really good), there are now too many posts to respond to each one. I was just too slow! As I suspected, the opinions on whether or not to re-finish my vintage Pre-Model 29 have run the gamut from one end of the spectrum to the other - from “heaven forbid” to “if it will give you pleasure, go for it”.

But it is the detailed rationale behind your opinions, which most of you have provided, that has proven most valuable to me. What emerges from this discussion is a deeper level of understanding of the consequences of my taking either path.

I pick up the gun on Thursday. I am going to shoot it, off-hand and with my Ransom Rest, then tear it completely down and clean it up as best I can. We’ll see how it looks then. At this point, after absorbing your comments, I am reluctant to refinish it without much very considered thought.

I must say that I very much appreciate the helpfulness of this online community. Taken as a collective, there is a depth of experience, knowledge and consequent wisdom that would be difficult to duplicate in other venues. The level of maturity on this sub-forum I also find refreshing. So thanks again.
Charlie