Concentricity, or the lack in this case, would be an indication that the cylinder/yoke assembly may not be perfectly in line with the center pin hole in the frame, or the point of rotation. The relatively minor inconsistency shown in your video would not directly cause/contribute to the malfunction your gun is demonstrating.

You can tell if the cylinder stop is too early or too late by closing the empty cylinder, preferably containing one or more empty casings or snap caps, then turning the gun on it's side so that you can view the action of the stop, (see between the frame and the cylinder in the location of the cylinder stop) and slowly pulling the hammer or trigger back.

If the stop is early it will go down out of the stop slot in the cylinder and pop immediately back up, locking the cylinder. If the stop is late, or "catches", it will only partially go down out of the stop slot prior to the hand beginning to turn the cylinder....the top of the ball of the stop will catch on the cylinder slot. (latter being the most likely scenario)

If the revolver has been worked on recently, and the stop has been replaced......if the ball of the stop was left too wide during fitting, this can also cause the problem you are experiencing.

During normal function the stop is pulled down out of the cylinder stop slot by the trigger hook as the trigger (or hammer in SA) is pulled and before the rotation begins....or before the hand touches the next available ratchet. The stop should not pop back up (be released from the trigger hook) until the rotation has been initiated and the cylinder has rotated to approx. halfway between the cylinder stop slot of the last fired chamber, and the slot of the next unfired chamber. After release, the ball of the stop then "rides" the cylinder surface under tension from the stop spring, until it comes in contact with the next available cylinder stop slot.....thus the infamous "turn line".

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer