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Originally Posted by JSR III
WOW, Gary all I can say is WOW. I followed the link and viewed some of their work. Absolutely outstanding. Do you have any idea on pricing?
This would appear to be very skilled hand labor and as we all know, that usually equates to $$$$$$$$.
Getting back to my revolver. Are all model 3 stocks the same? I think that I would prefer wood (being a carpenter) over the hard rubber.
Sal, I see two openings at the bottom of the cylinder window. With the gun broken open and when pulling the trigger, I see what appears to be a cylinder stop rising from the rear opening. At the same time it appears that I can see some part of the trigger falling away as the bottom of the trigger moves rearward. Common sense tells me that since there is an opening into the cylinder window, that something should protrude from that opening before the trigger is pulled. Perhaps if I am correct, that protruding piece would hold the cylinder in place and prevent the free spinning rotation that I am seeing now. Is that why the cylinder has what appears to be two stop notches, one rectangular and the front one more football shaped????
If I am correct, then it appears that my trigger is either missing something or there is gunk preventing some action.
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IIRC the forward most "football shape" cylinder stop employs only a spring tension, rounded off stop. I don't think the trigger pull does anything to the front football shaped springy second stop, however, the rear most stop is the one that pops up and down. I believe it always has spring tension on it and is rounded off like that to slip easily out and back in.
Also IIRC there is a main or secondary machined component held in by 2 pins that also holds in the spring and / or lever for the cylinder stop.
All too often the rear stop cuts in the cylinder get rounded off and the stop arm itself either wears and / or the spring tension is bad.
I know, for a fact, ANY deviation of the hammer stops, cuts, sear (not really a sear but you know what I mean) sharp edges ... once worn and an improper attempt to recut it with a file messes up he entire timing and synchronization of other functions.
Combine an improperly resharpened or worn hammer with worn vertical posts or a loose barrel latch and it only compounds the problem.
That flaw in all the top breaks of those vertical posts wearing is the single most common problem in these guns that had been well used over the years.
The latch being hardened is harder than the steel of the vertical posts. No matter how smooth it latches (my pristine NM3 Targets, the latch snaps closed like a Tiffany jewelry clasp) there is still friction. Add to that the dirt from the old black powder rounds it has grit being placed into the friction areas wearing more rapidly.
I once toyed with a design for a practical "fix" of the vertical posts after seeing some worn guns that had been "fixed" a best possible, like "peening" the friction surface, or attempts to bend the vertical posts back just a tad. If we were in the desert being chased by Rommel with no other firearms but these, and I'd be tempted to "fix" it the same way.
The idea I had was to machine off the rounded back of the vertical posts. Route a vertical groove for a dovetail fit in the posts from the rear and then press in correctly machined rounded section / component that would be especially and newly made by a machinist. Measuring to make sure the trim and the insert, when complete, that the barrel is level. The slightest pitch (up or down) would give you an awful time sighting it in as the further away the target is the more radical the inaccuracy.
It was shortly after that idea about 20 years ago that I gave up on trying to fix a top break revolvers that were worn past a certain point especially if worn at the top posts. BUT THEN, the Cowboy shooting was coming into vogue and sold some of the more worn Model 3s and ALL the .44 DA first models.
When I examine those I know best, the New Model Number 3 single actions, if it has the slightest click back and forth, I won't purchase it.
I can determine, at a glance with the hammer down, by the position of the trigger in the trigger guard whether the hammer has been cut or resharpened without even handling it.