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Old 07-14-2017, 01:05 AM
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JDinAZ JDinAZ is offline
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Location: AZ
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Default S&W Revolvers LOCK DELETE PLUG *** J K L N X Z Parts on Hand ORIGINAL PRECISION

Howdy everyone I'm J.D. in Arizona, just an old school Good ol' Boy from the woods in South East Ohio been in AZ a long while. Bear with me I'm a Machinist my writing/composing skills don't hold the +/-.0005 that my parts do coming off the machinery.


I update this thing every couple days so check back there's more things in the mix.

J K L N X Z frame LOCK DELETES are all on hand. KLN fits Z.

Solid Steel Cylinder Release Bolt Conversions now available at the bottom of this post. These are to swap out from the current factory production cylinder locking bolt to an all STEEL one. This steel cylinder unlocking bolt functions VERY smoothly when I get done with them. Takes just a light nudge on the cylinder and its open.

We are not allowed to respond to questions in the classifieds so use my contact info below or PM me.


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LOCK DELETE Engineering Info:
Fortunately my premium quality precision parts are a world class solution to the age old hole in the frame issue due to my engineering. Which is why I do not use the factory trident shaped retainer, it does not take much travel to allow the oblong cam to move freely, also why the trident cannot be used with the LOCK DELETE parts sets. They were purposefully engineered to NOT accept the factory trident.

My retainer on the other hand absolutely cannot release from the slug without removing the side plate and using a tool to compress the spring.

There is nothing wrong with the factory trident in its intended use with the factory lock parts, it functions as the factory intended. It was just not a viable part for me to use with the LOCK DELETE since I required almost double (200%) the interlocking travel distance in my parts.

I engineered my own retainer so I could ensure absolute reliability and retention in any situation. There is nothing wrong with the factory spring, it has been ran with my parts in an untold number of guns for many thousands of rounds in every scenario with zero issues.

My interlocking slug and retainer LOCK DELETE set is 100% bulletproof as tested, proven, and used in the field, competition, and most importantly for myself CCW defense guns. LOCK DELETE sets are in an astounding number of guns from coast to coast and the number keeps growing daily.
(I am a proud supplier to TK Custom, Tom stocks the LOCK DELETE in his shop)

I engineered this part set to fully seat and lock into place, the retainer must FULLY bottom out in the cavity to allow install. These parts cannot physically separate under heavy recoil even under constant hammering in competition or from the hottest 500 Mag loads. They can never migrate into the action, I guarantee that.


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I manufacture the LOCK DELETE, a different style S&W internal storage lock delete part set here in AZ along with other rock solid Bulletproof parts for when failure is not an option. This is what I do for a living full time so I'm always here to support you. PM, email, phone call, text anytime. My voicemail is always full so if I don't answer drop me a text at 480-305-3236 soon as I get my hands free I'll get back to you.


My KLN slug part set started when I pulled the internal lock out of my 329PD carry gun and went looking for a Titanium set to fill the hole, I couldn't find a TI set anywhere so I developed an Interlocking Slug and Retainer set for my carry gun that uses the factory spring and made them available for everyone in Titanium, Stainless, and Ordnance Steel. Packaged in an industrial duty ziplock so you have somewhere to store the factory lock parts, if you need to send your gun in for service from what I'm told just put them back in your gun and send it off for warranty work at Smith & Wesson. Just like pullin the chip out of your truck before you go to the dealership I guess.

Marine Corps Veteran Owned and Operated

Manufactured in Arizona

Small private shop not a Chinese widget factory and never will be

I do all the metal finishing and packaging myself by hand each part is 100% inspected. If I won't put it in my gun it goes in the scrap bin. See a message below from Dave O'Meara he is gun writer Doc O'Meara's son, been around a while in the gun world you can say.

Patent Pending part set fits J, K, L, N, X frames. KLN fits Z frames.

Machined from solid stock in Titanium, Stainless, Ordnance Steel

My current setup I can run about 6000+ part sets a month when I need to. Individual orders ship same day or next work day once funds clear. Mass volume orders may have a little lead time. If I need to run more parts than that I'll put more machinery in line not a problem.


The J and X are the same materials.
The packaging will be a little different. Front will say S&W REVOLVERS where it says KLN , back the only thing that changed is all 3 frame sizes (KLN J X yep 5 but whatever) and all 12 models I do will be on there not just one frame with 4 models.


Pricing is all the same for J, KLN, X, Z (KLN fits Z)

Titanium Matte part set (frame)-TI-MAT $39

Ordnance Steel Black (Norrell Molyresin) part set (frame)-ORD-BLK $44

Stainless Satin part set (frame)-SS-SAT $39

Stainless Polished part set (frame)-SS-POL $44
(reflection on head in pic is the lands and grooves on the side of my finger)

There's a $6 dollar flat shipping on each order. I pay $7.15 at the Post Office to ship the parts in a small priority mail box. It has 50 bucks insurance and I send you a tracking number.


If you lost track of where you put your factory spring or shot it across the room email me. I have a stronger spring for most frames

If you're not sure which one you need for your gun especially Stainless ones you can email me a picture of your gun or guns with model number (no serial number pics) to parts@originalprecision.com and I'll check it out then send you a link to buy the one or ones you need. I just found out that a couple guys ordered Satin Stainless but need Polished Stainless. These have already been installed so I can't take em back on exchange. For these few I am sending them a new Polished Stainless set at no charge to them whatsoever. After I send these couple out I won't be replacing for free like that in the future. So be safe and send me picture to make sure you get the right one if you're not sure I'd rather me take the time to check it so you get the right ones. If you do go ahead and order and it's the wrong finish no problem just don't install it and call me we'll work out getting it exchanged so you have the right one it'll just cost you shipping both ways on the exchange.


Order a few different ways, whatever works easier for you it's all the same to me. I don't do checks or cards directly that way I never have your account or card numbers so don't send those to me.

PayPal or Debit / Credit cards with the buy now buttons on my site. Easiest way two clicks from here and you're filling in your info.
S&W Lock Plug - ORIGINAL PRECISION

Mail a money order and include a paper with what parts you want and ship to address. Include 6 bucks shipping, make money orders out to:
J. Winland
P.O. Box 1755
Queen Creek
AZ 85142

Send PayPal payment to azsaiga12@gmail.com let me know which part set or sets you want and your ship to address, don't forget to add the 6 bucks shipping to the Slug part set total

Call or text me at 480-305-3236 or email parts@originalprecision.com and I'll send you a PayPal link



I don't check the laws in your area so you should know what they are and if they apply to this item, when you buy parts you are stating that you are allowed to have this item in your area (I don't like that part either but it keeps me out of hot water, you know how it goes).


MESSAGES FROM FOLKS ABOUT MY PARTS
I APPRECIATE IT


This is a message I received from Dave O'Meara in Arizona after he had a chance to install the KLN-ORD-BLK part set he bought from me for his new 329PD. Side note, Dave's father is the world renowned gun writer Doc O'Meara.

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"I just wanted to let you know that I installed your plug and it looks fantastic! I'm really sold on this product just wish there was a way you could set up customers being able to leave a review. If you set that up on your account you'll get 5 stars from me. Thank you and I hope you did very well at the show." Dave O'Meara

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Ordered one for my 629-6 on Sunday. It arrived in today's (Tuesday) mail. Installed in about 30 minutes. The most time consuming part was stopping the bleeding.
Only one point worth mentioning. Your video shows the removal of the slug and its re-installation. The removal of the lock may be a bit more involved. There are two notches for the tool to engage the stock retainer and they are covered by the lock's eccentric plate. The notches are not in line with the retainer's straight spring extension, making pushing the spring more of a challenge. A small "glasses" screwdriver worked around the lower edge of the lock's retainer did the trick. After that, all was as advertised. Thanx.

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JD-

Just put the TI-MAT in the 329, went in - no sweat - even with my 74 year old arthritic fingers.

Just ordered ORD-BLK- for the 329 Night Guard - (NG)

Thank you for a heck of a nice product!

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INSTALL NOTES from J.D.
When you put your parts in once they are in and the Retainer is snapped in place just push on the Slug from the back side to flush it with the outside of the frame. It will stay there held by spring tension. That's how I install mine. There's only a couple thousandths tolerance between the milled retainer channel and the thickness of my retainer. Had to be that way to make sure it would clear in all frames and won't bind when you compress the retainer and spring to get them to snap into the Slug. And also won't bind if you're pullin the Lock Delete out and puttin it back in to do a detail cleaning after shootin when there's crud in the retainer channel. If I made the Slug any taller it would stick out of the frame when you push on the back from the inside. When I engineered this part set I also reduced the heel of the Slug to make sure it can't get in the way of the hammer. This was all done before I released my Lock Delete kit for everyone. Note that some of frames have a very flat face at the edge of the hole, some have small bevel in the face at the edge of the hole, the dimensions I use let you flush out to the face for non beveled frame holes and you can push it back a bit for beveled frame holes.

If the Slug finish looks different than your frame just oil the gun like you normally do. I oil all parts with CLP before they go in the mini bags. The difference in how oily the Slug is vs how oily your gun is can make the finish look a little different. Oiling the gun after install evens out the oil on the Slug and the frame. This comes into play for some of my Slugs. Makes a night and day difference with Black Slugs and Satin Stainless slugs. My black 329 frame is two different colors depending on if I oiled it lately, black-greyish when not oiled, richer black when oiled.


MY 329 WITH A TI LOCK DELETE PART SET INSTALLED
I'll put other pics below these as I get them
















SATIN SLUG IN A POLISHED GUN
This gives you a good idea which Stainless Slug to buy for your gun if its shiny go with Polished unless you like the contrast then go with Satin. This one looks good with Satin. Your gun your call. This is also a great pic for you to see the bevel on the face of the frame I talked about earlier. See how this one is pushed back a touch, looks good this way, pushed outboard you'd see the edges of the slug and it would almost look like it was sticking out past the frame.




J FRAME AND X FRAME PROTOTYPES
They fit well. This is not my standard metal finishes. The metal finish I did on these doesn't match the TI cylinder, to match it buy a TI-MAT part set. These are only prototypes. Both men tore down their own guns and put the parts in.






John Ross Performance Center 500 one of 500 made. 250 this color 250 in a black. KLN-SS-SAT slug held from back to double check color match. Its there all day long. This belongs to a man that lives down the road from me. Retired Chicago PD did the Smith & Wesson school to work on department guns and damn good dude.




Ross Performance Center 500 SS-SAT Slug in daylight. This is a KLN part I'm holding from the back in the hole




Ross Performance Center 500. Man that owns this gun wanted me to point out that the hole was ragged when he got it, said it makes my part look ragged but its not.





John Ross PC 500 with X-SS-SAT parts and 340PD with J-TI-MAT parts installed




KLN-SS-SAT parts installed in PC Satin frame




KLN-ORD-BLK parts installed






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STEEL CYLINDER RELEASE BOLT CONVERSIONS

Original Precision Steel Cylinder Release Bolt Conversions for current production Smiths. Replaces the factory bolt with an all Steel one. These are a must for CCW, Competition, Field carry for predators, and any other Smith you are betting on. Or if you just rather have a steel part in your gun.


New part that I have available. Had a few threads pop off the top of my current production cyl unlocking bolt so I made a steel replacement by modifying a new old stock solid steel N frame bolt to work in my 329PD. I can do these for most all Smith frames. When I set mine up I referred to the Smith Armorer's three ring binder to verify proper fitment.

Donor bolts are short and don't unlock very well at all. Don't get the cylinder pin clear of the frame far enough. Makes it catch and is difficult to open. There's a picture attached at bottom of donor bolt in gun before it got reworked.

These function and unlock the cylinder VERY smoothly when I am done with them. Only takes a slight nudge to roll cylinder open.

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Received this from a man that installed one of my drop in N Frame Steel Cylinder Release Bolts.

"Fit was perfect. It's back together ready for Caswells tomorrow after work. Very happy with it thank you!"

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A donor bolt gets reworked to the same specs as the ones in my guns. Steel is correctly added/built up on the pivot stud, pivot stud is hand worked back to proper shape and trued to rest of assembly, pivot stud machined to the correct length for each frame size, part goes thru booth to get cleaned up then ran thru my black oxide station and it's ready to go.

IMPORTANT NOTE - I do these in two configurations due to the potential variances from one gun to another. These new Smiths are pretty consistent as far as swapping some parts from one to another without extra hand fitting. Which way you want your steel bolt done is up to you.

Options are:

Pre-fit Steel Bolt,
When you order this way what you will get is a steel bolt that has been set up exactly like mine to the same dimensions, it will drop in and work in your gun. It will unlock smoothly you can be sure of that, you may need to tune the tip of the pivot stud a bit or you may not depending on your gun. Quick slip across a fine stone will do the trick if you need to adjust it a thou or two for your gun. Most likely you won't have to do anything but put it in and use it since the current Smiths should be pretty consistent in the area this part lives. As I do more of these and add frames then the one I match to will be the prototype I do for each model. When I get an order for a new frame size I will have to locate a fitting gun out here in AZ to use to set that frame size up on so it may take a little longer to get the first one out for a new frame size but after that first one it'll be a quick turn around since I'll just match my prototype when I make your Steel Bolt.

"I'll fit my own"
Ordering this way will leave the pivot stud a little long, you will have to fit this part with a file or whatever means you like to use to do the adjustments to it. Once you start to fit it you own it just like any other part you buy and customize, you only have one shot to get this one right. If you take off too much steel its back to square one and you'll have to send it in to me to have me do the conversion again. Later I may fit and install these thru a local FFL dealer here in AZ.


Leadtime:
I'll be doing these once or twice a week keep that in mind when you order. Should turn around in my shop pretty quick this way.

If you are providing the steel donor bolt the turn around will be a little quicker from the time I get the order till the time I ship your Steel Bolt Conversion out to you. Since I won't have to order the part and wait for it to come in before I can make your bolt. Your bolt will get tagged in at my shop so the one you send me is the same one you get back.

I can order the parts so you don't have to mess with it that's no big deal. Some of the thinking about you providing the donor part is that you have a chance to look at the donor part and make sure you are happy with it before I do the work to it. 36 is about cost to get a donor bolt shipped to you, another 7.15 to ship to me is 43.15 you have in it. They are 45 from me.

Good example is the steel donor bolt I ordered to do the first one of these in my gun was a new old stock part so it has pits ect in the surfaces. I was fine with that since it is machined steel and well worth doing the conversion on for me. If I order the part you get the one they send to me pitted etc and you will be alright with this they are what they are I don't get to hand pick the parts all I can do is send in the order and use what they send me. If they send me junk I will return it for a good one for you. Doubt they vary much from the picture below, where I get them is a large well known and reputable parts company.

I recommend you provide the donor bolt. Especially if you found one at a gunshow very cheap. I can work with a nice used bolt. Do not just grab a junk bent up bolt and send it in to me I won't convert beat up bent junk that wont work in your gun.

If you don't know which donor bolt you need then order your Steel Cylinder Bolt and have me get your steel donor bolt. Or get ahold of me and I'll figure out which one you need and tell you which one to get. You can reuse the spring and plunger from the factory one in your new Steel Bolt Conversion.

Cost:

Steel Bolt Conversion on bolt provided by you
65 labor
7 shipping in priority mail flat rate box insured for 50 and tracking number send to you
Total 72

Steel Bolt Conversion on bolt provided by me
65 labor
7 shipping same as above
45 donor bolt
117

How to order:
Send donor bolt and or Money order to

J. Winland
P.O. Box 1755
Queen Creek
AZ 85142

480-305-3236

parts@originalprecision.com

Call or email if you want to do Paypal for orders with you providing donor bolt, I'll send you a secure pay link

Orders that I provide the donor bolt can use the secure Paypal Buy Now button on my site.
S&W Steel Parts


These are a special order part and are not returnable or refundable. I may stock one or two of each size later on. There will be no quality issues with these. I make each one by hand. I stand behind all my work so you can be sure you will get a top quality conversion.


Don't forget to include your contact info. Name, address, email, phone number, model number for your gun. Recommend you use priority mail flat rate boxes since you are sending these to my P.O. Box. UPS FedEx and the others will not deliver to my P.O. Box last I knew. Make sure you have insurance and tracking when you send a donor bolt along with the money order. Your parts your call. I am not responsible for lost packages that's what the insurance is for, if the package gets lost you can recoup your money. Just sending a money order isn't a big deal, normal envelopes in the mail will be fine.



Factory bolt out of my 329PD, note recess at the bottom of the pivot stud. Easy way to tell the difference between the current bolts and the old style solid steel machined ones.





Factory bolt beside the steel donor bolt before the conversion on the steel bolt





Donor Bolt in place fully forward. Too short creates a catch and hard to unlock. This is why I have to rebuild the pivot stud on these.





Finished Steel Cylinder Bolt Conversion ready to drop in your gun. You can see the pits I mentioned earlier. Nothing I can do about those it's how this bolt came in when ordered. Even with pits its still a well worth it conversion since you now have a steel cylinder unlocking bolt.





There's a video on youtube ORIGINAL PRECISION or on my site of the Steel Cylinder Unlocking Bolt Conversion in action. Normal hand cycle unlocking is very smooth just takes a light nudge on the cylinder to unlock it.
Attached Thumbnails
S&W Revolvers  LOCK DELETE PLUG  ***  J K L N X Z   Parts on Hand  ORIGINAL PRECISION-kln-ss-pol-face-jpg   S&W Revolvers  LOCK DELETE PLUG  ***  J K L N X Z   Parts on Hand  ORIGINAL PRECISION-kln-ss-pol-back-jpg   S&W Revolvers  LOCK DELETE PLUG  ***  J K L N X Z   Parts on Hand  ORIGINAL PRECISION-slug-isos-jpg   S&W Revolvers  LOCK DELETE PLUG  ***  J K L N X Z   Parts on Hand  ORIGINAL PRECISION-img_20170517_122834413-slug-1-jpg   S&W Revolvers  LOCK DELETE PLUG  ***  J K L N X Z   Parts on Hand  ORIGINAL PRECISION-img_20170517_113135222_hdr-jpg  

__________________
R/S
J.D.

Last edited by JDinAZ; 09-18-2017 at 07:49 PM.
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