I don't use it much to fix up damaged beadblasted surfaces but have done so,,I just don't run accross beadblasted surfaces much in my work.

Small damage can be fixed up quickly and efficiently using it.
If the area is large, worn or damaged extensively,,I'd simply mask and re-beadblast. It's the way it was done at the factory originally.

I do use it quite a lot to put the light rust pitting look back onto metal during restoration where needed.
It's not a one and done operation but instead a back and forth between the use of various finish techniques and the use of the abrasive technique described here.
Just the right look so the new part and/or (re)finish doesn't stand there and shout look how new I am.

FWIW, one of the pistol smiths from the 60's,,I think it was Clark,,used to matte finish the tops of the 1911 slides by the hammer technique.
But instead of using an abrasive cloth to imprint the surface he used a sharp fine cut mill file. Again altering the attack angle and being careful with the hammer blows so as not to create a pattern to the work nor leave dents from the edges of the file.

It's not too uncommon for some flat narrow top ribs on some older foreign shotguns to be seen lightly matted with this technique either.
But with CNC and all other sorts of machines doing the work these days,,those types of labor intensive techniques are not seen or used much anymore.

Hand cut filed rib matting or even florentine cut engraved rib matting are other ways to achive the right look on some older projects.
Background punches for engraving and other matting work can be made by simply punching the flat punch nose surface against a suitable flat file in 90* opposed directions leaving crisscrossed marks. Then harden it.

They cover the surface to be matted very quickly. A liner tool can also be used to create the crisscross marks. Lot's of different patterns fine and coarse can be made and shaping the face of the punch will allow it to get into corners and crowded areas between borders to complete the matting.
The top of the SxS frames on many Ithaca and some Fox shotguns that show extensive matting were done w/punches like that. Some fairly coarse.

Most 'gunsmiths' wouldn't even think about doing things that way. But if you are in to restoration and want things to look period correct and not necessarily 'shiny new' then that's what you do.

Just some thoughts.