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Old 08-16-2017, 11:26 AM
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chief38 chief38 is offline
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Default THREE GREAT GUN SMITHING AIDS TO KEEP YOUR S&W IN PRISTINE SHAPE

I have posted these simple hints before but not all at the same time. I often see dings, scratches, dents and more on many fine firearms and offer these up to help avoid them all together. I hope they help!

#1)

The most useful and inexpensive method of removing Roll Pins or Solid Pins is with the use of a Bench Block. Originally the Bench Blocks were made out of Steel as is the Starrett Block is on the left side of the photo. As we all know - steel is NOT the best material to lay our beautiful Smith's on if you care about keeping them from getting scratched and dented. I took a Hockey Puck and basically copied it from the Starrett, but slightly modified the holes to fit Guns better. There are no special tools required and the V Notch was cut with a Hacksaw. After cutting it was filed and sanded to get it smooth. I tried to duplicate the angle of the V-Notch as close as I could but the exact angle is not critical - as long as it's close.

The Other Hockey pucks are also use in conjunction with the machined one as supports on other areas of the firearm so it is evenly supported and won't "rock and roll" while working on it. This is the best method I've found yet and Hockey Pucks are certainly cheap enough. Luckily my Son doesn't play Hockey anymore so he won't miss the ones I appropriated.

#2)

A simple Bar Mat is GREAT and much better than the foam padded gun pads they sell commercially (at least for Handguns). The little nubs provide excellent holding power while working with oils and grease and will keep the handgun from sliding around. Not only that but it will allow fluids, crud, oils, dirt, lead, etc to fall to the bottom of the mat and still allow a clean surface for the gun to be worked on. They last forever and if you frequent a restaurant or Bar often I'm sure you can talk the proprietor into giving you one. If you are too shy, they are also available for sale on ebay and other websites. All I do is wash them out with a scrub brush and some liquid soap once in a while.

#3)

The large glass hypodermic (a 70 year old vintage version) is filled with one of the Synthetic Oils I use on my M41. The pinpoint accuracy and needle point makes it easy to get into tight places and only apply a small drop instead of flooding the area. New plastic ones can also be used, but the glass ones last much longer as their seals seem a lot less effected by oils.

So I hope these simple things help out the Members here and if anyone else has some ideas the would like to share - please post.

Regards,
Chief38
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Last edited by chief38; 08-16-2017 at 11:36 AM.
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