Quote:
Originally Posted by MistWolf
What's the first thing that should be done go a new firearm before shooting it? Cleaning and lubing. Indeed of the most common complaints from owners with new ARs is a gritty trigger. Cleaning and lubing the trigger goes a long way to eliminating that gritty feeling. It also properly lubes the trigger. Lubing the trigger is just basic maintenance. Installing an AR trigger group isn't difficult.
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The trigger needs nothing more than a drop of CLP on the pins. No need to remove, and since we are speaking about "proper" ways to do things, Uncle Sam never had me apply grease to the trigger... a single drop of oil on each pin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MistWolf
Not having a replacement BCG on hand is like driving around without a spare tire and no road side service. Extractor springs eventually fail. Bolts sometimes crack. Gas rings wear. When an AR starts to malfunction, the easiest, most universal solution is to install a replacement BCG. Some people have far to travel and pay range fees just to shoot. A spare BCG will let the shooter keep shooting.
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This is more like driving around with a spare engine... Sure, having some spare parts like gas rings or firing pins can come in handy... but not really necessary when you just purchased the rifle and haven't been to the range at all! Give him a few trips to the range under his belt. If that rifle fails out of the gate, it needs to be addressed by S&W, not by swapping parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MistWolf
A carbine weight buffer is too light. The correct buffer is an H or H2 buffer, depending. An AR can be shot until the proper buffer can be purchased, but it's best to start with parts made to the correct specs.
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And whose specs would those be? Are you saying that S&W doesn't know how to build their rifle to their specs? Sure, you can change little things and make the rifle run better FOR YOU... but it comes from the factory overgassed so that it is reliable with almost any off the shelf ammo, to include Tula and other cheap stuff. The military can spec a certain buffer because Uncle Sam knows exactly what ammo he will give the troops. Colt specs a different buffer because Colt never cared about selling to the civilian market and focused on gov and LE contracts. LE will typically provide the ammo to the officers as well, so they can spec the heavier buffer.
Since you made the car analogy, think of it like this. Ford builds the Mustang and puts it on the market tuned for efficiency for most drivers. Makes it run on mid grade gas. You do a little software tuning and change timing, shift points, etc... Now the car requires 92 octane... You hot rodded it and made it better for your use, however now you limited to the type of fuel you can use. Same with a buffer. If you are going to run quality, 5.56 NATO only, change it. If you are going to shoot whatever you can find cheapest, you might want to just leave it alone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MistWolf
S&W muzzle devices are heavier than they need to be. It's also out at the end of the barrel where it's increased arm will require more muscle from the shooter when tracking a moving target or transitioning from target to target. An A2 birdcage is lighter, cheap, ready to install and performs just as well.
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Unless something has changed, the Sport comes with a standard A2 flash hider. The one on my Sport I is no longer than the one on my CMMG rifle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MistWolf
I figure Goodoboy has common sense and will realize he can shoot his AR without doing anything I suggested.
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Well, he is new and asked for advice... let's let him shoot it before overwhelming him.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MistWolf
As he shoots his AR, he'll understand better why I made those suggestions. Yes, shoot the AR before making changes. As always, Ammo Before Accessories. Shoot Before Modifying. Shoot enough and the things I'm talking about will become apparent
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Agree...