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Old 04-19-2018, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Sear View Post
I have owned a fair number of 45 autos, and the only one I ever bothered with as far as changing springs was the first one (a Colt Government Model Series 70). I had read a lot of information (and now find it on line too) about needing to do this, but since have learned that it is a bad idea. I had (should have kept) a Colt 1911 GI that was made in the 1920s (IIRC), As far as I know, it still had all the original springs, and it never failed to function 100%.

The problem is not the springs. I never change them. I never change them because they do not wear out.

I have never been satisfied with Government Model pistols with less than 5" barrels. None of them worked reliably in my experience. I learned a long time ago to stick with ammo loaded with 230 grain bullets (any type or shape, as long as they feed reliably). I generally do not expect much bullet expansion from a 45 ACP anyway, especially when the barrel is less than 5" long.

There is a very delicate balancing act with short barreled Government Model pistols regarding slide AND frame mass, bullet mass, the power and pressure of the ammo, The way the shooter grips the pistol, and of course, recoil spring weight and construction (assuming the pistol chamber, throat, feed ramp, etc. are within spec.). If any of these are not perfect you have a non-reliable pistol.

For some reason, the shorter S&W autos do not have this problem. If you leave the factory springs in them, they are reliable. I offer no explanation, but only relate my 35 years of experience shooting 45 autos of various kinds.
There are thousands of people (if not more) that have reliable government model 1911's with less than 5" barrels. So someone has found a way to either modify them or been fortunate in their "luck of the draw".

I can't speak for everyone but I can say for a fact that changing the spring in mine made all the difference in the world. The stiffer spring appears to be EXACTLY what it needed.
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