Quote:
Originally Posted by MistWolf
When an AR is over gassed, there is only one fix. Reduce the gas drive. Heavier buffers and stiffer springs may help with the symptoms, but still do nothing to fix the problem.
Many consider H and H2 buffer to be "heavy" buffers but in reality, both buffers are lighter than the original rifle buffer. Carbine buffers are too light, even when an AR is gassed right. The H buffer is the lightest buffer an AR should use.
A properly set up 5.56 AR with a carbine RE uses an H or H2 buffer and a quality carbine action spring, such as a Colt action spring or Sprinco white or blue action spring.
How a BCG group feels is a good indicator how ask AR is gassed. The ejection "chart is not. If the carrier feels like it's slamming back and it's using the proper buffer and spring, the next issue to address is gas drive. An overly large gas port can be fixed by t replacing the barrel, installing an adjustable gas block or using a micro tune gas port from Black River Tactical.
The easiest and most versatile fix is the adjustable gas block. I use the SLR adjustable gas block. It uses click stops for positive adjustments and it's rugged. If anything goes wrong with it, SLR will take care of it, no questions asked.
The most economical is the BRT Micro Port. It's not adjustable, so there are no moving parts. But the Micro ports are replaceable, do the owner can try different diameters to tune their AR. BRT Micro Ports do require the gas block gas port be threaded for installation.
Nightrainnc, to tame your over gassed Sport, install an H2 buffer with your JP spring, then tune the gas drive with an SLR adjustable gas block. If you want to keep your original gas block, use the Micro Port kit from Black River Tactical.
About my previous post- Sometimes I'm a jerk.
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Thanks for the info!
Unfortunately, I will not be able to do any tuning to the gas system, so I'll strictly be dealing with Buffers and possibly the JP Spring.
I have an H2 buffer in a Spike's Middie, and I highly doubt the middie needs an H2 after what I've researched so the H in the Sport may serve the Spike's middie better, and the H2 from the Spike's serve the Sport better.
Out of 3 Smith's I spoke with, all suggested the H2 and normal spring (in this case a Chrome Silicon Damage Industries normal power spring) OPPOSED to an H buffer and the JP Spring.
I figured since the JP is 7% extra power, that it would serve best with a lighter buffer.
I have a M16 ToolCraft Carrier I bought for this but have been convinced that the M&P BCG, even thought SA, is top quality and not worth changing out being it's only a 14oz difference.
Seems an H2, factory Spring, and M16 BCG is the sweet spot for these Sports as I've read in archived threads, but now thinking about it, an H2 plus that JP spring would nearly be close to the 14ozs of an M16 Carrier, so maybe it indeed wouldn't be Overkill.
One Smith said he felt like the JP spring would highten the risk of me having malfuntions down the road (likely short stroking).
Although, being an M16 Carrier upgrade is no big deal at all and is 14ozs heavier and an H2 buffer is ONLY 1.5ozs heavier than a CAR buffer, is that a good way to look at things and how an H2 plus the JP spring that doesn't drag in the tube and has more forward power wouldn't equal an M16 Carrier in theory?
Or being in in the buffer tube, does that make a bigger difference even though not nearly as heavy as the Carrier, which would slow itself opposed to the H/H2 and slowing rearward travel and the JP +7% power speeding up forward travel and lock time.
Using SLIP 2000 EWL30 also and not sure if that makes a difference being it moves carbon to the side so hoping carbon wouldn't be as much of an issues.i just do not want to tune it to being on the border of malfunctions when getting dirty or not running like a tank as the SPORTs do from the factory when they are overgassed, so I'm hoping the overgassing isn't what makes them run so well, hopefully that's just to eat a wide variety of ammo solely.
I even proposed the JP Spring with an H buffer to allow the spring to build it close to the equivalent of an H2, and was told do an H2 and not mess with the spring.
What are the Con's of an upgraded spring???
Is likely being to make the cycling too stiff or risk it being on the border of it not having enough gas? Or do many people just not do combos to be lazy and only use buffers?
They say the JP spring DOES increase muzzle dip though as it snaps forward to ensure a good and longer lock time and have like a one-two punch feeling (rear cycle and forward cycle felt), the JP is half the weight of a Blue Sprinco though so if you have tried this, I may test this out after trying an H2 with my Damage Industries normal strength CS Spring.
What should I look for? Try short stroking tests like not shouldering the rifle when firing 223 etc?
I've heard the ejection pattern tells the most when tuning, although from the factory if was hitting the brass deflector and flying out around about 4:30, a behind me to my right in a nice consistent area, but don't think it was 5 o'clock.