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Old 05-19-2018, 08:16 AM
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steelslaver steelslaver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armorer951 View Post
In the models that use them in the assembly, if you do not have a drill press, the required amount of material can be removed from the extractor rod collar. Material should be removed from the end of the collar that faces the extractor.
I had never though about that, but it should work by letting the rod turn into the star assemble a little bit farther. Plus leave the finish on the end of the rod.

I shortened a K frame rod assemble from a 4" gun and used it with a 2 1/2" barrel on my total beater 357 when I installed the snub barrel. Just cut it to length and then knurled tip. Adjusted the length of the center pin. My total beater 357? A mdl 10-2 I bought cheap years ago, with a cracked forcing cone. Installed a Parker Hale barrel on it, milled it for adjustable sights and round butted it. Then after a K frame 38/357 discussion, found a recessed model 19 cylinder and installed it. Shot the snot out of it. Then along came the snub barrel and on it went. Transition from the rounded 10-2 frame was ugly so back in thee mill it went. Its a real trophy that I learned a lot on. LOL. But, it works and is my no worries gun for the boat, tackle box, loaner what ever.

If you have the right knurling setup you can fix rod where Bubba used his pliers. I have done several and with a bit of cold blue they look fine.

Last edited by steelslaver; 05-19-2018 at 08:29 AM.
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