Quote:
Originally Posted by H Richard
Regarding a couple items in this discussion.
1. Splatter back. Steel targets will both pock mark and get lead build up on the face, and a bullet hitting the uneven surface will splatter in different unknown directions regardless if the cant of the plate. Steel plates need the surfaces smoothed out from time to time. If shoting plates with centerfire you can get cupping (inward bending of the center of the plate), and this can cause large chunks of bullet materiel to splatter back to the firing line. Steel plates should never be shot at less than 10 yards, preferably more.
2. Difficult ejection from S&W .22 revolvers. This has been a fact of life for over at least 85 years. S&W chambers are cut to a match grade dimension, and 22's being dirty the build up in the chamber can foul the chamber in as few as 20-30 rounds making ejection difficult. I have had K22 Outdoorsman from the 30's having chambers still so tight after less than a boxful having to "beat" the empties out. Having to eject 10 rounds instead of 6 rounds makes things even harder. Reaming the chambers with a Manson "standard" finishing reamer will resolve this issue. Many will be able to get by with taking a brass brush to the range and brushing the chambers out every 20-30 rounds or so, and also polishing the chambers with a brush in a cordless drill and even using lapping compound with it. The only really permanent fix is the reaming.
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Sometimes a little polishing helps a long way...Several years ago a friend of mine was having FTE's on his little Kel Tec P3-AT. Even after it was thoroughly cleaned & lubed, it still had 3-4 FTE's per mag. Guy was ready to ship it back to Kel Tec, until....An acquaintance of the fella had a jewelers loop and he looked inside the chamber of the barrel and saw small spots of lead deposits caught in between the machining marks. The fired brass expanded and the tiny lead spots was just enough to prevent reliable extraction. Some 0000 steel wool on the end of a dremel to smooth out the machining marks in the chamber cured the problem, saving the guy a few weeks of not having his gun.
With my 617 I squirt Rem oil down the barrel and run a Hoppe's boresnake down it every 50-80 rounds or so along with running a pass thru the chambers on the cylinder during a match and wipe behind the ejector star with my T-shirt. If I don't then not even halfway thru the match the empties take a little bit more persuasion to eject and the cylinder would get tight to close. You can tell I've been shooting 22's when I have dirt smudges on my shirt and my finger's are black