While I more or less agree with those who hint or say outright that they all work, I have kind of settled on two lubricants and one preservative. The preservative is RIG. It works. There are others.

The grease for some lube is RIG +P Stainless Steel lube. Despite the name, it can be used on pre-57 S&W revolvers, usually for lockwork. I first tried it when, at an LFI-2 course, my SS Gov't Model C*** started acting sluggish long before 100 rounds went through it. Cleaned it & lubed it, and it managed to limp through the rest of the course with nightly clean & lube. Started using that grease, sparingly, on sear and hammer and such. Big difference! The grease alone can drop trigger pull on a 1911 a pound or two, at least. Whenever I recommend it these days for such use, I caution that all safety checks should be repeated before putting the gun into service after using RIG +P SS lube.

A few years later, I had a very reliable and helpful gunsmith do a trigger replacement, charge hole chamfering and a few other things to a chopped 25-2. The gun came back with a slight hitch in DA mode, and lubed with Ed's Red, which was in style at the time. All I did was open up the revolver, remove all the oil, and lube it with RIG +P SS. The hitch disappeared. I believe that Brownell's markets a few "magic" products which work as well as the +P SS, but they are not quite as easy to apply.

I use CLP for cleaning and for lube where oil is called for. I might use one of the (many!) other good oils, but CLP seems to work well enough for C & L both. Probably for P, too, but RIG seems to stick better.

Sometimes I use Hoppe's #9 as a powder solvent and fouling remover, on my rifles. On pistols, I don't think it matters that much.

That's everything I know! Not much, but I think that most of it is correct.

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Formerly Model520Fan