I'd call it short enough for a horizontal shoulder holster but heavier than you'll like; they're best for the little, aluminium pistols.

On the belt you already have good advice in the pancake, which ideally will have positive caster (rear sight leading the front sight) and be worn at about 4:00 (just behind the trousers seam on all pants and shorts). Or crossdraw with negative caster (front sight leading the rear sight).

The most important decision you will make, is center of gravity. Many, many holsters are designed to take advantage of the longer, 4" and 5" barrels to help hold the pistol vertically; then are cut shorter for 2" and 2-1/2" barrel lengths and the result is a floppy holster; followed by criticism that you haven't got the right belt. Great for belt sales. And forum posts.

Instead, look at where the cylinder will be in relation to your belt line, regardless of the barrel length; obvious in the molding. For automatics a different rule of thumb is handy. Anyway, when the cylinder is co-planar (how about that for a fancy US Patent Office claim word) with the belt then the holster will naturally stay upright; and with a pancake holster it will also not rock forward and back on the belt as long as your belt fills your slots. That will then be the trifecta: ideal c-g, pancake, belt matches slots.

With pancakes it's ideal to use an asymmetrical style -- which is where the outer panel is larger than the inner panel and so the pistol pocket is molded away from the body. The Aker, for example, is actually called a Flatsider for that reason (one of my designs for them) and many/most makers of pancakes do this today. I do believe we can credit Gallagher at Galco for doing this first though his old design looks much like one would have from Seventrees of the same era; had the latter been in business still when the pancake appeared.

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Red Nichols The Holstorian