I suppose I should mention how a bone dry aluminum yoke in some of the PD/Sc/Ti wheelguns might lend itself to a functioning problem.
One of our guys brought me his PD snub one morning at our range, complaining that he'd had to resort to turning the cylinder by hand to finish his qual course-of-fire because the trigger had become too hard to pull. Well, that ain't right.
I checked the snub and confirmed the DA trigger pull was horrendous and the cylinder couldn't be turned via trigger pull. I also opened the cylinder and found that the cylinder wouldn't spin. At all. It was very stiff to even turn by hand. (The trigger pull was fine without the cylinder closed and the hand not having to engage the ratchets.)
Removing the cylinder I noticed the yoke was very dirty and the two bearing surfaces were bone dry. I cleaned and re-lubricated the yoke and then reassembled the revolver. The cylinder spun easily and freely, as intended, and the DA trigger & cylinder carry-up was fine.
I showed the owner how to check for normal cylinder spin, and how to remove the cylinder to wipe the yoke barrel and add a couple drops to the yoke bearing surfaces if the cylinder started to feel sluggish. (I emphasized to him to avoid over-tightening the yoke screw, too, to avoid damaging the frame.)
Then I told him to go back downrange and either shoot the whole course-of-fire again, normally, or at least run a few cylinder loads through the snub to satisfy himself that he could stake his life on the gun running normally again (it was a secondary duty-weapon for him in his assignment).
FWIW, while I've not had this occur to my own J-frames that have steel yokes, I have found that the aluminum yokes in my pair of M&P 340's do seem to "dry out" sooner than my snubs that have steel yokes. The surface texture and finish of the aluminum yokes seem a bit less smooth than the steel ones, too.
I periodically check the ability of my cylinders to spin freely (cylinders open). If they start to seem as though they're slowing and not easily spinning freely as long as previously, I remove the cylinders and wipe down the yokes, and add a couple drops of lube to the yoke bearing surfaces, which always restores cylinder spin.
When I was working as a firearms instructor (before and after retirement) I was putting in a fair amount of frequent range work with my various snubs, especially my 642's and M&P 340's, and it was the aluminum yokes in the 340's that seemed to foul and lose lubrication - and the ability to freely & easily spin - sooner than in my 642's.