[quote=spclark;140812395]


#513-050-020WB reamer .22WMR Finisher is NOT the correct reamer for use in a revolver cylinder.

That reamer is for use in a Rifle bbl or in a semiauto pistol bbl.

I've read through all of the posts in this thread and probably only once or twice has the fact been mentioned that you need:

A "Cylinder Reamer' for reaming or recutting the chambers in a revolver cylinder.

The first reamer you referenced:
Reamer # 513-051-220WB
Rimfire Cartridge, .22 Long Rifle Finisher (Cyl)

This IS a correct reamer for use on revolver cylinders Note the 'CYL' reference on the reamer description.
But this is for cal .22LR, not the 22WMR you need.


The CYLinder Reamer differs from the usual barrel chambering reamer most often thought of, the kind used to chamber a rifle bbl, as the Cylinder Reamer DOES NOT cut a tapered lead with the chamber.
Also, the Cylinder Reamer has it's pilot the same dia as the chambers throat, that reduced dia just ahead of the chamber proper.
That throat dia is usually the groove dia of the bbl being used.

The pilot on a standard Rifle Bbl chamber reamer is bbl bore dia less a couple .0000". The pilot on the reamer rides on the lands of the bbl as the reamer is pushed in to cut the chamber.
Just behind the pilot the tapered lead of the reamer is machined to cut at the same time as the chamber is cut.

So you can place a rifle bbl chambering reamer into a revolver cylinder. The smaller pilot on the rifle reamer (bore dia) will slip right thru the revolver cyl throats. But then if you proceed to cutting, the rifle reamer will first cut the revolver throat area out to what you see looking down a rifle bbl. A tapered lead or throat.
Keep cutting and the reamer will cut/recut the chamber (.22lr in this case) w/o the benefit of a piloted tool. The final out come is not what you're looking for.

Finishing Reamer marked 'Cylinder' for use in Revolver cylinder.
Sometimes just marked 'C'
Look at the pilot end. Should be NO tapered throat or lead. Just the squared end of the case in profile, then the cylinder throat and pilot the same dia.

(Rifle barrel chamber reamers are generally marked 'Barrel' or just 'B".

Solid pilot is usually OK. You may need a floating/removable pilot if the throat is smaller in dia than the standard size that the reamer was ground to and it won't enter the chamber for you. You then order/buy a removable pilot for the reamer to replace the one that's on it. They are usually held on with a small C clip or some with a small #4 screw.
Solid pilot reamers can be converted to removable pilot reamers by their makers for about $50. Pilots are extra.

Reaming/recutting cylinder chambers isn't difficult. Simple precautions taken and the job comes out fine.
They used to sell a de-leading reamer mentioned in one of the posts. It was to remove just that,,lead and built up carbon and nothing else. No metal. A cleaning tool.
It's something that was used before going to a chambering reamer to see if simple cleaning would cure the problem first.
Never very popular.