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Originally Posted by glowe
Yes you can, but as with any use of improper ammo, the accuracy can be affected. I guess Phil did not see my post, but my comment is that the difference between a groove with .357" or .361" is only .004". It is often debated, but I have read that a relatively soft lead bullet will expand when fired because of the back-pressure generated by the ignition of the powder, and it is also known that barrels differ is dimension so slugging a barrel is the best way to determine bore and groove diameters.
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Hi Murph!
Not only accuracy, but under-size Bullets promote Leading of the Barrel as 'early' ( or even continued ) hot Gasses go around the Bullet taking micro-droplets of Molten Lead with them, which then adhere to the Barrel Bore.
Bullets upsetting ( expanding on acceleration ) was all one had for good fit, with the usual Muzzle Loafing Single Shot Arms...which also used a Patch, and or when of larger Bore, and Military, used deeply Hollow Base Bullets.
Single Shot Muzzle Loading Target Long Arms, one Loaded through a false Muzzle End, in order to load a full size Bullet, or a very close size one with a Patch so it would already be "Groove to Groove" filling, as one drove it down all the way.
Hollow Base Bullets for Service Revolver were a way of trying to make up for over size Bores ( which had no reason to be over size ) in some of the Inside Lube Cartridges, but this was never a good solution.
Hollow Base Bullets in .38 Special, were to allow a heavier front and in theory, maybe, a little better stability over long distance than a flat base Bullet, but this has always been with right size Bullets for Barrel's Groove to Groove size...not as a way of trying to make up for an under size Bullet.
The good solution has always been, to use right size Bullets.
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I did some experimenting early on, taking measurements after forcing .361" pure lead bullets into the .357" 38 Maximum case and guess what? They were reduced in diameter to around .358" so another compromising factor. I used a 38 S&W bullet seating die to get that result. If one uses a 38 Special or 357 die, the bullet will be reduced even more.
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Right...
Murph - One is supposed to e-x-p-a-n-d the .357 Maximum Cases to accept the .361 Bullet..!
This takes a long, purpose built expander made for this size, not a Lee Case Rim flare Die.
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The reality is that one cannot completely duplicate the original cartridge, but by using hollow based bullets, you will get maximum accuracy using the 357 Maximum case. That, for me, has resulted in never seeing oblong holes or keyholes in the paper.
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One can duplicate the original Cartridge perfectly, using Original Cartridge Cases and right size Bullets...and 3F Swiss Powder.
I have decided to do this with 12 Rounds...to dismantle and use 12 of my original Cartridge Cases.
Or, one can virtually duplicate the original Cartridge to be indistinguishable in performance and fit and all else but for the diameter of Cartridge Case base, by using shortened, expanded .357 Maximum Brass, and right size Bullets.
Since these Cartridges are not crimped, one does not need a Crimping Die - only a Primer Punch, an expander Die, and a Seating Die.
Expander Die can be used to compress the powder first, if one likes, too.