Thread: 44 Magnum crimp
View Single Post
 
Old 11-14-2020, 12:38 PM
WR Moore WR Moore is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,630
Likes: 1,814
Liked 5,384 Times in 2,711 Posts
Default

If you're swapping back and forth between full power loads with jacketed or hard cast bullets and ~1000 f/s practice loads with plated/coated bullets and no crimping groove there's an easy way out: buy a taper crimp die for those plated/coated bullets. At those velocities you don't need much of a crimp (or maybe none at all) to keep them in place and encourage proper powder burn (assumes faster burning powders in use). Having 2 dies eliminates the fussing about changing die adjustments when changing between bullet types.

I went to this system with .38's and it works fine, see no reason why it wouldn't work with .44's. Way back when I shot a lot of .44's in Special cases, I didn't bother with crimp at all, just ironed the case flare out.

About post #13: the major purpose of a taper crimp-besides ironing out the case flare as mentioned-is to help minimize bullet setback during the feed cycle. It doesn't do much to prevent the bullet from moving forward. Back when, they used to cannelure the various cases of ammunition used in semi-auto handguns to prevent bullet set back. Then some bean counter apparently decided it cost too much and there were other ways to do the same thing. Somewhere around 1980 .45 ACP military ammo lost the cannelure.

Back when I was still working we got lots of messages about bullet setback in auto pistol ammunition-esp. .40. I don't recall the source and misplaced any copies I had, but the ammo makers "suggested" that auto pistol ammo not be chambered more than 4-5 times lest there be bullet set back. Our armorers had an interesting collection of ammunition with various degrees of bullet setback.

If there is a crimping groove, by all means, roll crimp.

Last edited by WR Moore; 11-14-2020 at 12:55 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following User Likes This Post: