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Old 02-22-2021, 05:18 PM
smithra_66 smithra_66 is offline
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It also depends on the revolver lockwork itself.

With Colt SAAs or the V-spring action DA's, the bolt is designed to drop in the lead itself, a very short distance from the notch. The only "turn lines" you would see on these types of guns is wear in the lead, UNLESS you make it a habit of turning the cylinder while the bolt is between the leads. If you load an SAA with the "John Wayne" approach and cock the hammer and lower it, no problems. Likewise, with a V-spring DA Colt when you close the cylinder, do not rotate it by hand into the next notch. Simply cock the hammer and lower it, or just pull the trigger if your gun doesn't have a hammer spur.

For S&W guns or Mark III or newer Colt DA guns, it's a whole different ballgame.

The cylinder stop is designed to drop between the leads and a long way away from the notch, directly onto the cylinder. The spring is relatively weak on these designs (doesn't need to be strong since the bolt drops so far before the leads). There's nothing you can do on these designs. You WILL see turn lines over time.

Colt takes the approach to make the whole cylinder a "lead" in the newer guns like the Python...each lead is huge.

So bottom line: if you see heavy turn lines on a SAA or V-Spring Colt, be leery. Someone may not have handled it properly over a long period of time, or the gun may be exhibiting "early bolt drop" from wear that wasn't taken care of. For the newer Colts or all S&W's, don't worry about a turn line. It's unavoidable with use and designed to be that way.

Last edited by smithra_66; 02-22-2021 at 06:13 PM.
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