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  #1  
Old 02-05-2013, 12:06 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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Default How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?

I used to think that the higher the bullet weight on any given cartridge, the higher the recoil. But I've found that's not always the case. I've shot 115gr loads that seemed less controllable then some 130gr loads. I've shot one +P load that seemed to have less recoil then another manufacturers standard pressure load.

How can I tell how hot a .38spl load is going to be by brand or info on the package? Or is it all just trial by error?

Last edited by Chris L.; 02-05-2013 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:49 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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Sorry, it's hard to tell from the box unless they tell you the velocity like on CCI .22LR ammo boxes. Since I don't remember seeing any velocity ratings on .38 Special ammo boxes I can't guess how to tell what the felt recoil will be from different loads without shooting them.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:49 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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I assume your definition of "hot" relates to recoil, so I'll try to respond accordingly.

The +P designation is for ammunition that is loaded to a slightly higher pressure level and is available in various bullet weights. A +P load using a lighter bullet may produce what is perceived to be more recoil than a standard load using a heavier bullet.

Notice I said perceived recoil. There are a lot of variables in how a shooter deals with recoil. Something I have noticed over the years with novice shooters is that a load that generates more muzzle blast than others is perceived to have correspondingly higher recoil. Such is not necessarily the case, but there it is.

As far as comparing ammo from one make with another, there are many variables that come into play. Bullet diameter, jacket composition, bullet bearing surface, powder type and quantity, primer composition, internal case capacity, etc.

Just a suggestion to save some time and money: check out the customer reviews on a site like MidwayUSA. There is a lot of good feedback there and it might give you a better idea of what you are looking for. Good luck.
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Old 02-05-2013, 12:54 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjw3 View Post
I assume your definition of "hot" relates to recoil, so I'll try to respond accordingly.

The +P designation is for ammunition that is loaded to a slightly higher pressure level and is available in various bullet weights. A +P load using a lighter bullet may produce what is perceived to be more recoil than a standard load using a heavier bullet.

Notice I said perceived recoil. There are a lot of variables in how a shooter deals with recoil. Something I have noticed over the years with novice shooters is that a load that generates more muzzle blast than others is perceived to have correspondingly higher recoil. Such is not necessarily the case, but there it is.

As far as comparing ammo from one make with another, there are many variables that come into play. Bullet diameter, jacket composition, bullet bearing surface, powder type and quantity, primer composition, internal case capacity, etc.

Just a suggestion to save some time and money: check out the customer reviews on a site like MidwayUSA. There is a lot of good feedback there and it might give you a better idea of what you are looking for. Good luck.
Thank you for the info and for understanding what I'm talking about. It looks like it may be a trial by error type thing, but I will try to do some research as to the best loads for my gun.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:00 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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Default Not the case

It doesn't quite work that way because it's a mix of several factors including pressure, powder burn rate, bullet weight (mass), acceleration and velocity achieved. Factory ammunition labeled +P is supposedly loaded to a higher pressure but over the years the difference between a standard round and a +P round has diminished to the point where many say that +P is just a marketing tool. Ammo like Buffalo Bore, Cor-ten and other specialty stuff is loaded very hot. Common brands such as Winchester, Remington, Federal, etc. are loaded to generally standard pressures and +P of the same brands may give a little more fire and kick, but that may not give much real advantage in velocity. Hotter doesn't mean better. Other factors like bullet performance and accuracy are important. Note that you will get different results with different length barrels. Short barrels have more recoil and build less velocity. Longer barrels have less recoil and build more velocity. The main factor is that you get the bullet that's right for your purpose be it target/plinking, self defense, hunting, silhouette, Cowboy shooting or whatever. I find that cheaper brands are much less consistent in performance whether they are hot or cool.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:02 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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Chris, which gun are you shooting. While we know every gun is different sometimes an ammo that shoots well in one gun will also shoot well in the same model gun you own.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:32 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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Quote:
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Chris, which gun are you shooting. While we know every gun is different sometimes an ammo that shoots well in one gun will also shoot well in the same model gun you own.
I have a 642 J-Frame and a Ruger LCR-38.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:49 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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I have a 642 J-Frame and a Ruger LCR-38.
I have found the Speer 135gr Gold Dot Short Barrel .38 Special +P load shoots well in my M442. It is a little stout in a 15oz revolver though. When a relative who is recoil sensitive carries a Airweight J frame I gave them some standard pressure Federal Nyclad ammo and they thought it was acceptable. The Nyclad ammo delivers less felt recoil than the Speer ammo IMO. (125gr bullet)
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:50 PM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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For practice the 148gr wc is usually the lightest recoil in the light J frame with the 158 LRN std vel at second place. The 158gr lead cowboy is a little hotter with 800fps as the set velosity but some companys load a little slower.
The new thing is the 130 jacket bullet that does not lead the barrel but velositys differ per the companys components.

Midway and Cheaper than dirt give velositys and users rate the ammo,which might help you make a selection.

+1 on the 135 Speer for a +p SD load as the minimum load that passed the FBI standards and has the lighest recoil.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:20 PM
kaaskop49 kaaskop49 is offline
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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Wish to underline the postings by cjw3 and rwsmith! Also, be careful with off-brand or foreign loadings that became more common after 2008. I have found hard small-rifle primers loaded in 38 Spl. that would misfire or hang-fire, leaving the bullet wedged in the muzzle of a 4" bbl.
I have 2 cases of Armscor Precision 38Spl, one loaded 'warm' with 125 gr FMJs (for 4" bbls) and a 2nd loaded 'too soft' with 158 gr FMJs (for 2" bbls).
Skip this nonsense and stick with American name brand practice loads.
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:06 PM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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+1;

"Made in the USA" is a good thing..................
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:32 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaaskop49 View Post
Wish to underline the postings by cjw3 and rwsmith! Also, be careful with off-brand or foreign loadings that became more common after 2008. I have found hard small-rifle primers loaded in 38 Spl. that would misfire or hang-fire, leaving the bullet wedged in the muzzle of a 4" bbl.
And how can you tell they are loaded with small rifle primers?

There are plenty of good ammo companies outside the USA. (even though I also prefer American ammo). S&B (Czech), Privi Partisan (Serbia), Fiocchi (Italy), MagTech (Brazil), PMC (Korea) and Aguila (Mexico) are all fine to shoot, none of which are American companies. I do not like the Steel case stuff and I'm not crazy about Russian ammo.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:41 PM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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ArchAngelCD: rounds were inspected and taken down by gunsmith/reloader. They were from a semi-custom loader out west. Some had no powder charge...Suffice to say, I will never shoot that brand again. I have shot many 1000s of rounds through .38 service revolvers; it is unsettling to have a bullet protruding from the muzzle end of the bbl twice in the same range session.
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Old 02-07-2013, 02:41 AM
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How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box? How can I tell "hot" .38spl loads from "normal" by looking at the box?  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaaskop49 View Post
...it is unsettling to have a bullet protruding from the muzzle end of the bbl twice in the same range session.
Indeed it is.
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