|
|
05-30-2014, 08:17 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 8,865
Likes: 10,603
Liked 15,203 Times in 5,250 Posts
|
|
Corrosive ammo
I was given some "mildly corrosive" .308 ammo recently. I assume its the primers.
If I use it, is the best way to clean the barrel to pour boiling water through it? Then a normal cleaning? Or should I avoid it altogether?
It's only 200 rounds and would be one session at the range.
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 08:19 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: N Georgia mountains
Posts: 799
Likes: 614
Liked 707 Times in 330 Posts
|
|
Clean it using the same methods as normal, just don't take shortcuts you might normally take to save time. A good way to describe it would be an intense cleaning, but not using different methods.
__________________
Bob | KM4DEO
Sport | Glock 22
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 08:34 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Outside Philadelphia Pa
Posts: 16,601
Likes: 7,342
Liked 17,200 Times in 7,303 Posts
|
|
I shoot lots of corrosive ammo. Never did anything fancy with the cleaning. No windex, no hot water, no urine, no soapy water. ....just regular Hopes or CLP. Just make sure you scrub it good. In total it takes me maybe 5 min longer to clean. Sometimes it takes a lot longer but that has nothing to do with corrosive ammo. Another thing to keep in mind is the weather where you live. Some places are so humid that rust starts to form within the shooting day. I'm in SE Pa and we get 100 degree days with 90% humidity and I have let my guns sit sometimes up to a week before cleaning and nothing happened.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 08:57 AM
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,898
Likes: 3,296
Liked 4,963 Times in 1,951 Posts
|
|
"mildly corrosive" is a term I've seen but don't understand... it's either corrosive or it's not, but as long as you neutralize and/or remove the corrosive elements, it'll be ok. As you're probably aware, don't just concentrate on the bore but also bolt, muzzle, gas system, etc.
Having shot my share of corrosive ammo, I usually use hot soapy water where possible and otherwise use the old GI bore cleaner (white, water based) cleaner for corrosive ammo. Never had a problem.
|
The Following 4 Users Like Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 09:13 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hills of North Georgia
Posts: 5,131
Likes: 1,854
Liked 12,482 Times in 3,413 Posts
|
|
I shoot a bunch of corrosive in my Mausers and my new Mosin. I do a thorough cleaning when I get home using Hoppes. Never had a problem.
__________________
LIVE FROM THE DAWGHOUSE
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 09:39 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: TN
Posts: 2,229
Likes: 5,221
Liked 4,871 Times in 1,396 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arik
I shoot lots of corrosive ammo. Never did anything fancy with the cleaning. No windex, no hot water, no urine, no soapy water. ....just regular Hopes or CLP. Just make sure you scrub it good. In total it takes me maybe 5 min longer to clean. Sometimes it takes a lot longer but that has nothing to do with corrosive ammo. Another thing to keep in mind is the weather where you live. Some places are so humid that rust starts to form within the shooting day. I'm in SE Pa and we get 100 degree days with 90% humidity and I have let my guns sit sometimes up to a week before cleaning and nothing happened.
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
|
"Urine"? Really? I hope you don't have to apply it directly into the chamber of your M1 Garand least you have more that just "M1 thumb" to worry about!
|
The Following 5 Users Like Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 09:48 AM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Outside Philadelphia Pa
Posts: 16,601
Likes: 7,342
Liked 17,200 Times in 7,303 Posts
|
|
Some people have said that urine devolves the salts. Maybe it does but I never used any of those methods. Besides, when was the last time you heard of corrosive Garand ammo
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 10:04 AM
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,898
Likes: 3,296
Liked 4,963 Times in 1,951 Posts
|
|
It's been a while since I've seen any on the market but I still have some Korean KA along with some PS M2.
|
The Following User Likes This Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 10:26 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 8,865
Likes: 10,603
Liked 15,203 Times in 5,250 Posts
|
|
Thanks everyone. It's good to know that it's not a real problem.
Also, I would think urine has as much salt as the corrosive ammo.
I don't mind doing a good clean up after the range.
Excellent answers!
"Likes" all around.
|
05-30-2014, 12:00 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: The Peach State! GA!!!
Posts: 5,916
Likes: 14,318
Liked 6,257 Times in 2,328 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jessie
I was given some "mildly corrosive" .308 ammo recently. I assume its the primers.
If I use it, is the best way to clean the barrel to pour boiling water through it? Then a normal cleaning? Or should I avoid it altogether?
It's only 200 rounds and would be one session at the range.
|
Trust me, there is no such thing as mildly corrosive ammunition. That having been said, corrosive ammunition that is otherwise in good condition works extremely well. I have fired a lot of it in various surplus military rifles. A batch of 200 rounds would be great for a nice afternoon at the range. Once you get home, use boiling water w/ some dish washing liquid to clean out the bore and chamber. Be sure and give attention to the bolt face. I stick the barrel down into the hot water and use a rod and patch to pull the hot soapy water up into the bore/chamber. It works very quickly and very well. The metal gets so hot that when you are finished, it dries itself. I then use an oiled patch in the chamber/bore. This method has worked perfectly in every rifle I've ever owned/fired.
If you have a grungy rifle, etc., fill the bathtub with boiling water and some dishwashing liquid. Remove the stock and place the metal parts in the tub. Let it sit for about five minutes. Use a phosphor-bronze brush to scrub the chamber/bore. Use a copper chore boy on the metal parts if there is rust, etc. Otherwise a rough rag will work well. Wear rubber gloves... otherwise you'll have problems holding the hot metal. Afterward, rinse with boiling water. The metal will dry itself. I've used this method to turn some dirty poor looking rifles into very nice shooters, and in a few instances what looked like another potential shooter turned out to be a real eye popper!
__________________
<><
|
The Following 3 Users Like Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 01:57 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 7,749
Likes: 1,642
Liked 9,152 Times in 3,380 Posts
|
|
The fired primer corrosive salt is water soluable,,most any metalic salt is. They are also Ph neutral to start with so there's no need for anything fancy to neutralize it,,it already is.
Water and anything with water in it works fine to disolve them.
A little soap, alcohol or ammonia added will make the water 'wet' better on the metal surfaces.
What ever you get good results with and no damage to the bore or finish,,go with it.
re; corrosive Garand ammo. That's about all I shoot yet in mine.
Mostly Denver Arsenal Ball and AP dated 44 and Korean 70's mfg Ball ammo.
One of the 2 Korean mfg headstamps is corrosive, the other isn't,,can't ever remember which is which but I always clean the rifle the same and no problems all these years. I have both.
The supply is getting down there, but enough for my range time habits for a while yet.
|
05-30-2014, 02:05 PM
|
Absent Comrade
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Louisville, KY, USA
Posts: 19,336
Likes: 53,737
Liked 38,387 Times in 11,802 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdlii
"Urine"? Really? I hope you don't have to apply it directly into the chamber of your M1 Garand least you have more that just "M1 thumb" to worry about!
|
Man, you could have posted all week and not said that!
__________________
Oh well, what the hell.
|
05-30-2014, 02:44 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: On the Range!
Posts: 602
Likes: 447
Liked 603 Times in 250 Posts
|
|
Avid 7n6 user.
Warm water and Ballistol.
The water dilutes the corrosive salts, the Ballistol leaves a film of lubricant that will help protect the surface until it can receive a full cleaning.
__________________
Molon Labe!
|
05-30-2014, 03:25 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Minden, Nevada
Posts: 3,627
Likes: 2,014
Liked 5,296 Times in 1,736 Posts
|
|
I use Hoppes No. 9 Plus on my black powder firearms and any smokeless powder firearms using ammunition with corrosive primers. No problems.
|
05-30-2014, 03:27 PM
|
US Veteran Absent Comrade
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: San Diego, PRK
Posts: 9,237
Likes: 11,531
Liked 11,249 Times in 3,916 Posts
|
|
Would "mildly corrosive" be anything like "a little bit pregnant?"
Google "moose milk." A mix of Ballistol & water.
|
05-30-2014, 05:49 PM
|
SWCA Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 4,898
Likes: 3,296
Liked 4,963 Times in 1,951 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2152hq
One of the 2 Korean mfg headstamps is corrosive, the other isn't,,can't ever remember which is which...
|
IIRC, and having shot a few rounds of both Korean headstamps through 1919's and M1's, the way I remember is KA= korrosive ammo, PS= pretty safe.
|
05-30-2014, 05:53 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: between beers
Posts: 8,891
Likes: 4,778
Liked 6,941 Times in 3,310 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdlii
"Urine"? Really? I hope you don't have to apply it directly into the chamber of your M1 Garand least you have more that just "M1 thumb" to worry about!
|
in that case ... use someone elses
__________________
it just needs more voltage
|
The Following 2 Users Like Post:
|
|
05-30-2014, 06:34 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Outside Philadelphia Pa
Posts: 16,601
Likes: 7,342
Liked 17,200 Times in 7,303 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by venomballistics
in that case ... use someone elses
|
Lol
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
|
05-30-2014, 07:07 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sierra Nevada foothills
Posts: 5,893
Likes: 4
Liked 4,425 Times in 1,700 Posts
|
|
I have a can of GI bore cleaner out in the shop that's made for cleaning after firing this ammo. Works for me.
|
05-30-2014, 09:45 PM
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Harlem, Ohio
Posts: 14,451
Likes: 23,500
Liked 26,374 Times in 9,141 Posts
|
|
Ed's Red, you make it yourself and it was designed to work for all problems in gun cleaning. Google it. Ivan
|
05-31-2014, 12:00 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: The North Coast
Posts: 1,517
Likes: 148
Liked 1,170 Times in 549 Posts
|
|
I would think that mildly corrosive refers to the fact that the salt alone will work very slowly based largely on humidity. The more moisture available the faster the corrosion. Something that is aggressively corrosive such as sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid will cause corrosion on contact.
I heard from a relative who worked in the salt mines that they had a pickup truck used in the mines for something like 10 or maybe even 20 years with no visible rust and after all that time they brought it out of the mine and within a year or so much of it rusted completely away.
As far as ammo and firearms are concerned I would think that any cleaning regimen is going to provide better long term results than no cleaning at all.
But what about following corrosive ammo with non corrosive? Or are the salt deposits at the atomic/molecular level not affected by subsequent shots?
|
05-31-2014, 03:03 AM
|
|
Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lost Wages, NV
Posts: 20,058
Likes: 24,588
Liked 29,384 Times in 10,931 Posts
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcwsky09
But what about following corrosive ammo with non corrosive? Or are the salt deposits at the atomic/molecular level not affected by subsequent shots?
|
I would never chance that. Boiling water is still the best thing for dissolving corrosive salts.
"Mildly corrosive" is up there with "slightly pregnant" and "a bit dead".
|
05-31-2014, 03:04 PM
|
|
US Veteran
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 7,520
Likes: 19,278
Liked 32,372 Times in 5,476 Posts
|
|
I agree with BruceV on this. Boiling water with a little dishwashing soap for cleaning, followed by boiling water rinse, then bore brush and patches, oil the piece and put it away. This is the method we used regularly during the 1960's and early 1970's in the Army for maintaining just about all small arms.
In the field we used only rod, bore & chamber brushes, solvent and patches (an old toothbrush is also very handy). After returning from the field the trash cans with immersion heaters boiling the water were set up for proper maintenance before the weapons went back into the arms room.
|
|
Posting Rules
|
|
|
|
|