Someone suggested using CLP for cleaning my semi auto rather than Hoppe #9 an lib oil. Said 3in1 saves time and just as good. Any comments on this

I haven't found a need to use Hoppes #9 on my 3rd Gens other than a quick pass done the barrel occasionally. Revolvers are a different story though.

I use Rem Oil to spray out my 3rd Gens innards (grips off). Let it soak a bit then use some compressed air to flush out the excess. It has a Teflon additive. CLP spray seems a bit thick for that to me.

.

__________________
Waiting for the break of day

I'm content to use CLP alone for standard cleaning. It does the job.

Special cleaning issues like leaded barrels or neglected fouling might call for different approaches, but in my working guns that see regular care, CLP keeps them maintained.

CLP is a much better lube and preservative than it is a cleaner. It will not touch copper fouling and doesn't remove powder fouling very well either. The time savings is insignificant when compared to the final results.

I use either CLP or Hopes. But I don't care if there are powder burns and I don't try to make them look new after each range trip, or ever. Just want them functional. I use those two because it's what I have. If I had something else I'd be just as happy. Occasionally I take them to work, throw them in a parts washer with some transmission fluid and 30 seconds later all clean. Just wipe off the excess

CLP is good for areas that have loose tolerances. It doesn't address copper removal. It also dries too quickly for my taste. A lot of people like it. As with all products that contain Teflon, shake the can before using, the Teflon particles settle to the bottom.

Hoppe's # 9 is the best gun cleaner period. What kind of man wouldnt love the smell of Hoppe's in the morning? I even use it as an aftershave.

If you only clean your pistols after several range trips (500-1000 rounds), Hoppes, or some other heavy duty cleaner is good. If you clean after each and every range trip, where build-up is not an issue, a CLP (Break Free, or Remington) does fine.

One thing I Don't do though, is liberally spray the entire pistol... This only turns the residue to 'Sludge' and becomes a chore to clean. The only part I liberally spray is the barrel and let it sit, while I do the rest of the pistol.
After spraying the barrel, I start with dry Q-Tips to get most of the residue out of the frame and slide parts, then moisten a couple more Q-Tips with CLP to clean what didn't wipe clean.
If the breach face is dirty, I'll moisten an old (retired) toothbrush to scrub the breach face (trying NOT to get any cleaner in the striker channel) and the feed ramp.
Then, I go back to the barrel and run a Bore Snake back & forth through it a few times. The built-in bore brush, surrounded by the rope does a great job in scrubbing and wiping the bore.

The whole process only takes about 5-10 min.
YouTube has a video called 'Gun Cleaning 101' by FMG Publications, where he uses 'traditional' solvents and rods, but you can use the same techniques shown in the video with CLP.

For bores I use a bore product like, Hoppes #9, Benchrest, Hoppes Elite, Sweets 7.62 and a few others. For the rest of the gun I use WD-40, a nylon brush and compressed air to blow the crud off after I loosen it up with the brush, this works especially well in the locking recesses on AR15's and other rifles.

Here's a link to an interesting article on lubes and cleaners:

Gun Cleaning Product Tests

I guess I have just got to be different, for bore cleaning I use a 25/75 % mix of Kroil and Hoppes #9. I lube and then swab the bore and cylinder charge holes with CLP Breakfree. For any copper fouling the Sweets 7.62 is used. So far so good.

__________________
Stay safe people!