Hi:
I was at the range yesterday with several S&W "K" Frame .38 Revolvers.
Shooting a new 50 round box of Remington 158 Grain LSWC-HP +P ammo.
Two rounds wound not allow the cylinder to turn. The two rounds would seat full length in the chambers but still would not allow the cylinder to turn. I checked for high primers, but the primers were fully seated.
It appeared that the cartridge rims were a mite too thick.
I tried the two cartridges in different "K" Frames revolvers with the same results.

In "The Day" after the revolvers were loaded, it was a practice to close the cylinder, pull the hammer part way back, and spin the cylinder. I am considering starting this practice again.

Quality control at the ammo factories has "Slipped" somewhat.

Often cartridges with lead bullets are difficult to thumb in the cylinder because the lead bullet are usually larger than jacketed. If you get brass that's on the large side of tolerance you get a fat cartridge. When handloading a change in brand of brass usually fixes the problem.

Last time I had this problem it was caused by a build up of lead and lube in the cylinder throat. I gave the revolver a good cleaning and the problem went away.

I always do this with a new batch of carry ammo. It's a little trickier to do with a Centennial gun, but it can be done.

This is one of the arguments against bobbing a hammer. It can still be done using the trigger, but it should probably be done only at a pistol range, with the gun pointed downrange.

I suppose that in a pinch, it could be done at a rifle range.

It's a shame how quality control has gone into the toilet. Seems like the end user is now the QC inspector.

IMO, CCI, Buffalo Bore and Federal are the best quality these days. I've LONG SINCE given up on Remington & Winchester.

As mentioned in one of my old post, on SD ammo that I buy....

First thing I do is dump the box on a towel at the breakfast table
and inspect each bullet and case for anything wrong.

Then I see if they fit the revolver without any problems....
then I weigh each round and separate into light and heavy...
then chrony both to see what turns out.

The 38 is not a big thing in my last purchase but the Federal
9mm 147gr HST was off by 3 grs and did have a noticeable fps difference.

Your die shell holder is a quick way to check the case's base and rim.

Stay safe.

My new Remington 38 Spl +P 158 gr LHPs works great in my Ruger Blackhawk. Call and send Remington an email telling them that you got a bad box (they probably will make good on it).

Remington has resolved the long seated bullets in this round but your concern sounds like that may have a problem now with their case supplier (or Dept).

You don't need to use the trigger. Cut a strip of index card. Open the cylinder. Thread the strip under the cylinder and over the cylinder stop. Close cylinder with muzzle pointed in a safe direction. Rotate cylinder. Open cylinder. Remove strip. Done. This is what I do with my 642. Having an exposed hammer, or hammer nub in the case of Bodyguards, makes it easier, but it's not necessary.

Agreed. I had some bad ammo with weak case walls from Remington. Firing them didn't result in squibs, but I did have a number of split cases that required pliers to remove them from the cylinder wall. I e-mailed Remington and they sent me a shipping label asking me to send them the cases I recovered as well as the remaining ammo I had from that lot (4 boxes total). A few weeks later I received a check reimbursing me for all 4 boxes.

Jimmyj the spin test was standard when I was shooting ppc. Quality control, don't even bring up .22LR.

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I bought a 1000 round case of PPU 158gr RNL .38Spl. awhile back and had the same problem in a M10-5. The rims were noticeable thicker than U.S. made .38's. Not by a huge margin, but could be seen with the naked eye......My M10-5 is the only gun that does not like them. I never encountered this before. I guess with all the "hurry up....the behinder they get"

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