..........

I am going to guess a heavier bullet has a less "snappy" recoil, along with more bullet being held by case tension, so might be a better choice in a revolver, where a bullet moving forward is more of a concern than in an auto, where a bullet moving backwards can be an issue. Just a guess though, as all my revolvers are chambered for traditional revolver cartridges that use a roll crimp. That said, I have not heard that much about this being a problem. Seems the worst offenders are ultra light revolvers loaded with full power loads and light weight bullets.

Larry

It looks like this out of my LCR 9 mm. I ended up using an Underwood round. I'm away from home so I can't tell you which one right now. I did chrono them, though.


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Am I to assume, based on the different case types, that there are two different types of ammo present or are these reloads?

Either way that is extreme bullet pull.

Test whatever you plan on carrying.

Chubbs

I have never had a problem with my .40 S&W pitbull with factory ammo. The 40 should have more recoil than the 9 in the same weight gun. If there is a problem with reloads then either the neck tension is not tight enough, or the crimp too light.

No problem with reloads either, but I load my reloads light, and put enough crimp that I can't push them in with thumb pressure.

I have a 3'' 547, not your normal sort of 9mm revolver but in firing all sorts of ammo (including handloaded lead) I have not had a problem.

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

In the old Speer #8 manual, their 9mm bullet did have a cannelure on it.

Maybe they knew something we forgot about?

Could be why the "New" smooth GD bullets have a sealer on their bullets?

You can also size your cases twice, each subsequent sizing the spring back gets less.

I've always felt more recoil in a semi of the same caliber as a revolver. It amazes me that there is that much bullet pull on those! However after shooting the LCR in 38 special that gun doesn't seem to suck up any recoil!
Interesting showing and something important to keep an eye on. A loose bullet in the chamber and an ignition is a recipe for disaster. Perhaps the position of the bullets in the magazine of a semi allow room to absorb the shock where as the revolver with moon clips is most rigid in holding the case and allowing the intertia to move the bullet.

Karl

I "just love" physics questions with multiple variables, but the questioner only specifies one variable...weight of bullet is not the only factor, probably not the critical factor. Weight of gun and specific impulse of cartridge are very important.
The way I answer a question like this in loading class is if your .38 and 9mm bullets are pulling in revolvers, you have a screwed up reload, or else a huge mismatch in equipment. Case sizing is critical, and the crimp alone won't hold it.
I haven't shot all the ammo in the world, but Fiocchi is pretty hot and works fine for me. Pick a brand you like and try it in your revolver to be sure.

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Science plus Art

My LCR357 only ever had one bullet pull and jam the cylinder. It was a 38 spl that had a cracked casing. I shoot revolvers more than semi autos and I only had this one time that it happened. The round was a factory reload BTW.

I don't think you will have a problem because if it was a possible problem to be concerned with then the gun makers would have been very concerned with it. Maybe with reloads not crimped correctly you might find this happen.

Don't forget that a revolver full of heavy bullets would kick a little less.

You can get a smaller 'M' type die for expanding so as seating a bullet will be tighter.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

As mentioned by a previous poster (OKFCO5) recoil impulse is largely governed by the weight of the weapon.

The 547 is not a light gun, being an all steel K frame. Above is mine loaded and holstered. (I do take it out of the holster before firing).

I use Hornady Critical Duty 135 gr but have used Critical Defense, a lighter bullet at 115 gr. Both with no problems. I do feed it new manufacture premium ammo exclusively.

digiroc

The underwoods are the good ones. I believe the were one of the top rounds on the short barrel 9mm testing done by that guy on YouTube. I think he concluded that Speer gdhp (124g?) would always perform well when driven to a particular minimum velocity. I'll have details when I return next week.


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It's a simple question, but the problem is that there is no simple answer.

You're making an assumption that there is going to be a problem, and the general consensus is that most factory ammo is good to go whether it be 115, 124, or, 147.

With reloads you run into problems because different makes of brass have different characteristics, different dies are machined to different specs, and not all bullets are the correct diameter. These variations are very small but still easily measurable if you know what you are doing. The wrong combination of components can lead to bullets that pull easier than they should. add into the equation 9mm isn't designed to be fired from a revolver and you run into problems.

Buy a couple boxes of ammo and see what works best in your gun. If you have problems with a specific type of ammo make a note of it and avoid it going forward. For example If you have a problem with nickle Winchester 115 grain rounds, it doesn't necessarily mean all 115 grain bullets are a problem, or that all Winchester ammo is a problem, or that all nickle ammo is a problem. There are more variables than bullet weight.