Looking at buying a bunch of either Greek HXP Pyrkal or Lake CIty manufactured ammo for my older Rem. 721.
Both ammos are listed as being M2 ball, non-corrosive, as "attracting a magnet", and as boxer primed.
My interest is in practicing with this new-to-me rifle and in saving the brass for reloading.

Anything I should be aware of before making a purchase?

Looking at buying a bunch of either Greek HXP Pyrkal or Lake CIty manufactured ammo for my older Rem. 721.
Both ammos are listed as being M2 ball, non-corrosive, as "attracting a magnet", and as boxer primed.
My interest is in practicing with this new-to-me rifle and in saving the brass for reloading.

Anything I should be aware of before making a purchase?

Both the Greek arsenal and LC US arsenal .30-06 ammunition was loaded for M1 Garands, BAR's, and Browning M1919 machine guns. They may be advertised as "non_corrosive" but I would still be diligent about cleaning the rifle the same day it was fired. They will have crimped-in primers, and require either primer pocket swaging or reaming before you can reload them. Other than that, it should be good quality practice ammo.

I used Greek 30/06 with great success. It was dated 1974 and was not corrosive. The brass is mil-spec and thus will not take full-power loads. Swaging primer pockets is a must, which is OK if you like that sort of thing.


Okie John

I've shot alot of the Greek HXP in 303 British caliber and that is non-corrosive. Excellent boxer primed brass too for reloading. Great ammo,,too bad the supply of 303 dried up.

Lake City Arsenal switched over to non-corrosive priming in 1951/1952 (ball/AP)...or '52/'53 depending on which list you read from .

Never had any HXP in 30-06 so I personally can't say for sure that it's also non corrosive.
However on every M1 forum that I've read I can't think of any comments other than the HXP being non-corrosive.
Most folks are buying it from the CMP now.

I'm still whittling down my pile of Korean stuff...

CMP's current batch of Lake City is de-linked machine gun ammo. Loaded to normal M2 ball specs but reports from some shooters is that the brass isn't holding up to many reloads before case mouth/neck splits.

The Greek HXP from CMP seems to be more accurate and the brass is excellent for reloading.

As far as reloading, making book velocities with thicker mil-surp brass is simple, you use a slightly reduced powder charge, usually about 10% less than for the same bullet and powder in commercial brass.

A reloader ought to be starting with reduced loads and working up whenever they change components.