N frame experts

roaddog28 · Oct 14, 2009

Ok guys, I have had my 28-2 4" now for 2 months and been out to the range a couple times. I have noticed that the 28 shoots 357s easier than my 686-3 4". It has less recoil and beats me up less. I was under the impression that the weight of the N frames was not much different than the L frames. Is this true? I just know that for shooting 357s I would rather use my 28 versus my 686.

Experts clue me in!
Thanks,

roaddog28

29aholic · Oct 14, 2009

Weigh them

If you have both, weigh them. The SCSW doesnt give the weights but I believe the 28 is heavier, but it probably balances better due to the light barrel and the heavy cylinder is over the balance point.

Ron H. · Oct 14, 2009

roaddog28 said:
Ok guys, I have had my 28-2 4" now for 2 months and been out to the range a couple times. I have noticed that the 28 shoots 357s easier than my 686-3 4". It has less recoil and beats me up less. I was under the impression that the weight of the N frames was not much different than the L frames. Is this true? I just know that for shooting 357s I would rather use my 28 versus my 686.

Experts clue me in!
Thanks,

roaddog28

Sir, a 4-inch Model 28 and a 4-inch 686 weigh about the same, so with a given load, they recoil about the same in terms of pure numbers. However, there's more to recoil than just numbers. The two guns balance very differently and have different bore heights and trigger reaches, so they distribute the same recoil differently.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.

wilshire1412 · Oct 14, 2009

Might make a difference depending on which type of grip you have on each as well. I think N frame .357s are great! Wish I still had one.

roaddog28 · Oct 14, 2009

Thanks guys. I don't have a scale to weight them but they feel in my hand about the same. It makes sinse that the balance could just be different enough to make the 28 handle shooting 357's better. This is the biggest frame double action revolver I have ever owned. I have several K frames but was always told the N frame was the way to go on shooting 357s. I bought the L frame long before the N because I wanted a revolver that could handle steady diet of 357s. Although I like my L frame if I would of tried a N frame revolver before I bought the L frame I would have never considered a L frame. For me, the N frame just feels better shooting 357s.

Thanks, for the information.
roaddog

bmhiii · Oct 15, 2009

Just my preference here, but the N frame feels a lot better when shooting the .357 magnum cartridge. Huge fan of 27s and 28s....

However, I did shoot my first 686 the other day and I do see the why's of the fascination in this revolver. It was fairly sweet....

roaddog28 · Oct 15, 2009

bmhiii said:
Just my preference here, but the N frame feels a lot better when shooting the .357 magnum cartridge. Huge fan of 27s and 28s....

However, I did shoot my first 686 the other day and I do see the why's of the fascination in this revolver. It was fairly sweet....

Originally I was looking for a revolver that could take shooting 357s all the time so I did not wear my K frame magnum out. I kept hearing from experts to get a L frame magnum. So, I came across one sometime back and bought it. Its a 686-3 4". I like the revolver very much but I did notice I did not shoot any better with it than my K frame. So two months ago I found this sweet shooting 28-2 4 " at my gun store. Stock grips and the production is between 1967 and 1968. My gunsmith who works at the store told me this is the revolver for shooting 357s. So I bought it. Long story short, I been out to the range twice with both revolvers. And the difference is surprising. Maybe it is me but I feel less recoil and I am more consistant and more accurate with the 28. This forum has a love for N frames. Until two months ago I did not have the same love. Now I do!

Below is my # one 357 revolver.
Thanks,
roaddog28

PALADIN85020 · Oct 16, 2009

Glad you like your N-frame .357! The Model 28s offer the most bang for the buck in a heavy-duty .357 magnum. If you want the easiest-recoiling .357 possible, look for one of these beauties. This is a Model 27-2, with the 8 3/8" barrel. Laser-accurate out to 200 yards or more, with VERY mild recoil. I have two, one blued and one nickeled, and it would take a lot to get me to part with either one.

Engine49guy · Oct 16, 2009

Forgive me for repeating myself..... but,
Having one of each makes you appreciate their subtle nuances.
Left to Right, J, K , L and N frames.

(J frame shown is actually not a .357 but shown for comparison because it has a 4" barrel)
New J frame .357's are slightly larger.

Jimmymac46 · Oct 17, 2009

PALADIN85020 said:
Glad you like your N-frame .357! The Model 28s offer the most bang for the buck in a heavy-duty .357 magnum. If you want the easiest-recoiling .357 possible, look for one of these beauties. This is a Model 27-2, with the 8 3/8" barrel. Laser-accurate out to 200 yards or more, with VERY mild recoil. I have two, one blued and one nickeled, and it would take a lot to get me to part with either one.

I would have to agree with nearly everything posted here, especially with regard to the short barreled 357's. My 28-2 is a soft shooter to say the least. While recoil is perceived differently in different hands and guns vary in accuracy in the same model, I find my 686 8 3/8 inch is somewhat easier to shoot than my 27-2 8 3/8. I believe it is due to the under lug. As the barrel length increases the lug becomes more and more evident. My 686 is noticably more muzzle heavy than my 27-2 and for me, that equates to less muzzle 'flip'....at least in my hands. I also feel that the 686 is the most accurate of the Smith 357's, but again, JMHO.

As a final note, my 27-2 is a near twin to yours, down to the color and pattern of the Goncolo Alves stocks. I had to go to my safe and verify mine was still there!. Sweet, sweet guns to say the least.....but I guess I don't have to remind you of that?

j38 · Oct 17, 2009

My Model 28-2 weighs 2 lb 9.9 oz. My 586 weighs in at 2 lb. 9.5 oz. Both are 4" guns. As you can see, less than 1/2 oz. separates these guns. I would agree with earlier statements that how the respective grips fit your hand will make more difference than 0.4 oz weight.

Regards,

Jerry

Dirtman · Oct 17, 2009

I have a 686PP 6" barrel and my wife has a S & W TRR8. Both absorb recoil quite well. Both have Hogue factory rubber grips that fit the hand quite well and help a lot with recoil.
At one time I considered putting custom wooden grips on my 686, just to make it look pretty, but I really like the feel of the Hogue rubber grips too much to change them.
The Sept. 2009 issue of American Rifleman Magazine had ratings of their top 10 handguns. The hand ejector S & W revolvers were rated number two, behind the 1911 as number one of course. This included the I, J, K, L, M and N frames. Then, later the X frame. I'm sure not everyone will agree with their assesment, but their reasoning seemed to be pretty well thought out, IMHO.

Klatuu · Oct 19, 2009

The way you hold the gun is the difference in this case. This is a function of the grip material & dimensions, frame geometry, size & shape of your hand, etc.

The two biggest contributing factors to felt recoil with handguns, in my experience, are grip width & bore axis. All else being equal, a wider grip will impart lower felt recoil, unless it is very poorly designed in some other aspect. Bore axis is the height of the bore above the hand. The higher the bore axis, the greater the muzzle flip. Less muzzle flip = less perceived recoil. An example of a naturally low bore axis gun is the 1911. The bore axis on a S&W DA revolver is naturally high. Generally, if you're gripping the N Frame gun higher to that bore axis than you are the L Frame gun, that's a big reason you are experiencing lower felt recoil with the bigger gun, even though they weigh virtually the same.

Check this fellow's advice, you may have heard of him:
Jerry Miculek on revolver grip

roaddog28 · Oct 19, 2009

Klatuu said:
The way you hold the gun is the difference in this case. This is a function of the grip material & dimensions, frame geometry, size & shape of your hand, etc.

The two biggest contributing factors to felt recoil with handguns, in my experience, are grip width & bore axis. All else being equal, a wider grip will impart lower felt recoil, unless it is very poorly designed in some other aspect. Bore axis is the height of the bore above the hand. The higher the bore axis, the greater the muzzle flip. Less muzzle flip = less perceived recoil. An example of a naturally low bore axis gun is the 1911. The bore axis on a S&W DA revolver is naturally high. Generally, if you're gripping the N Frame gun higher to that bore axis than you are the L Frame gun, that's a big reason you are experiencing lower felt recoil with the bigger gun, even though they weigh virtually the same.

Check this fellow's advice, you may have heard of him:
Jerry Miculek on revolver grip

Thanks, I will read it. It makes since on what your saying. Up until now my only 357s were K frames. I bought the L frame so I could use it for shooting 357s only. This was to save my K frames. I have small hands and I am small in stature. Of course the K frame has always fit my hands well and the result is I do well at the range with them. My new to me N frame really did surprise me. I bought the revolver more because it is a classic. I live in California and the model 28 was very popular in the sixties and seventy's with Highway patrolman. Now its become my favorite for shooting 357s.
Thanks,
roaddog28

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