Help with an S and W Victory model.

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My Dad recently gave me an S and W Victory model that his dad gave him. Can't seem to find any info on it. Seems that no Victory models came from assembly either nickel plated or stainless. This may be either a post factory finish job or a factory error. It's a Victory nonetheless due to the "V" in the serial number. Or am I wrong? If any one has any info on manufacture date, history, value, etc. I would appreciate it. Below is a link to photos of the weapon.

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Look close at the side plate. Looks to me it has been buffed along the edge. This was done I think to get it ready to plate. Looks good..
 
Welcome to the forum. The first V-prefix serial numbers went out in 1942, and the production clip was pretty fast. I bet your gun is from 1943.

I agree that your victory was polished and nickeled, probably in a postwar refinish. Note that the gun is marked on the barrel for the .38 S&W cartridge, which is not the same as the .38 S&W Special. The United States provided hundreds of thousands of lend-lease guns to Commonwealth countries during WW2 that were chambered in the .38 S&W round, which shot a heavier bullet from a case that carried less powder. After the war, when many of the lend-lease guns were reimported to the US, they were refinished and had their chambers lengthened to take the .38 Special cartridge, which is slightly longer. Test your gun to see if all chambers take a .38 Special round; if so, the cartridge conversion was probably done at the same time as the refinishing.

There are tiny case diameter differences between the .38 S&W and .38 Special rounds, so the brass of .38 specials can sometimes swell slightly in converted guns. Split cases are even reported on occasion. That doesn't mean they are unsafe to shoot, but you should be aware of the situation. The manufacturing tolerances were loose enough that sometimes you will find a .38 Special revolver that can chamber .38 S&W cartridges; theoretically you shouldn't be able to stuff a wider cartridge in a thinner hole, and most of the time you can't. But we're talking about only thousandths of an inch here.

Nice family heirloom. Keep it in good shape for future generations. Thanks for posting.
 
Thanks for the replies so far, guys. Appreciate the info. Just for giggles I'd like to contact S&W directly to see if they have a history of the weapon. Has anyone dealt with them directly on that type of issue and is it worth my time to do so? Thanks again.
 
You can get what's called a Letter of Authenticity for $50. These are usually two-page narratives with a boilerplate history of the model in question and a concluding paragraph that tells you the shipment date and destination of the particular gun about which you are inquiring. I'm not sure I would spend the money on a military contract revolver as there is usually no mystery about their destination, and you can estimate from serial numbers that your gun was probably shipped in mid-1943.

I'm not telling you to forgo the research, but I'm trying to say that the bang for the buck is not as great on military contract revolvers as on commercially supplied revolvers. Google for "S&W Letter of Authenticity," and high in the list of hits you will see a link to the form you can use to submit the gun.
 
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