lead in barrel - how big an issue?

suburbanman · Apr 10, 2011

This is my first post, so forgive me if it's in the wrong place:
I have a new-to-me 686-3. I've shot about 150 rounds ( all 38 spl wadcutters) through it and I'm very pleased with the accuracy. Today, cleaning the barrel, I was using a brass jag to push through a patch when i felt considerable resistance near the forcing cone. I gently pushed it through and the next time I did this with a dryer patch, a nice-sized chunk of lead came out.
My question is, "How big of an issue is this?". Is this just common with shooting wadcutters in a 686 (586, etc.) Is it common to any revolver and wadcutters? Or am is it ready for a trip to my gunsmith?

cptdco · Apr 10, 2011

Any lead bullet can leave some lead in the barrel, some more than others and if it's a lot, which seems to be the case here, you need to go looking for a problem. If the lead is in or near the forcing cone, usually the bullet is too hard for the low velocity. Try reading the page on lead hardness at the web site for Missouri Bullet Company. They have a lot of good information. Are you reloading these yourself? I shoot swaged (soft) lead hollow-base wadcutters in .38s and .357s without undue leading, and I push hard cast bullets of various designs to high velocities without a problem. Could some of that lead been there when you bought the gun? Give it a good cleaning. Do a search here for the words "chore boy" and you'll see a number of threads that have covered this topic. Good luck, hold off on the gunsmith trip, and congratulations on a fine firearm.

k22fan · Apr 10, 2011

Although it is possible there is a barrel defect that is very unlikely. Reloaders usually quickly arrive at a load than does not significantly lead their barrel but also have leaded up a few barrels experimenting. Lead bullet reloads from small vendors are a gamble and some of the big factorys' lead bulleted cartridges will lead as well.

However, cleaning lead out of a barrel is easy. Bronze wire bore brushes work fine for my barrels. A Lewis lead remover is nice for cleaning cylinders and forcing cones but you can also speed up cleaning with bronze wool or solid copper Chore Boy dish scrubbers. Since your gun is stainless you may as well buy some bronze wool or Core Boys so you can easily clean the front of its cylinder and outside without changing the appearance of the factory finish. Fine bronze wool is my preference.

Gil

suburbanman · Apr 10, 2011

Could some of that lead been there when you bought the gun?
I did think of that. I only swiped the bore of any oil before shooting it. Today was the first real cleaning.

Also, the last 50 I had shot were from GA Arms. At $12.50 for 50.00, could they have been the source of the lead?

I do think more shooting will come before I look I look for a smith job.

I do know about Chore Boy. (but I'd like to hear your particular method of using it, unless that's already been explained elsewhere in this fourm

)

Thanks!

Alk8944 · Apr 10, 2011

Leading in the barrel is not an issue, at least to we older people who have been shooting revolvers since before there was such a thing as jacketed ammunition for revolvers.

Unfortunately leading is a fact of life if you are shooting commercially loaded ammunition. Any lead bullet ammunition from the majors uses swaged bullets that are soft. They also are inadequately lubricated.

There are several ways to remove lead. The Lewis Lead Remover, available from Brownell's is excellent. A little Copper Chore Boy wrapped on an under-sized bore brush works well. And, finally, if you can get it, Mercury (OMG) will amalgamate with the Lead and it will simply wipe out with a tight patch after givjng it a while to work. A Mercuric ointment, known generically as "blue ointment", may still be available from a pharmacy and has adequate Mercury to do the job. There is also the Outers "Lead Out" electrolytic machine that works well.

m1gunner · Apr 10, 2011

The main reason I like revolvers is the huge choice of lead ammo I can use in them.

Try bullets from several manufacturers and you will soon find some that work really well in your gun. Little leading and excellent accuracy can be had, but each gun is a story unto itself.

Lou_NC · Apr 11, 2011

suburbanman said:
I do know about Chore Boy. (but I'd like to hear your particular method of using it, unless that's already been explained elsewhere in this fourm )

Thanks!

I shoot lead bullets from a variety of sources in my 1911's (.45ACP), Glock 23 (.40 S&W), Ruger New Vaquero's (.38 spl), and a multitude of S&W DA revolvers. Whenever I have lead buildup in a chamber mouth, forcing cone, or barrel, I soak the bore with Kroil, wrap some chore boy (or equivalent) loosely on a worn bronze bore brush, and scrub about 10-20 strokes in the forcing cone and cylinder chambers. That's all it takes.

I used to use a Lewis Lead Remover in my 1911 .45 ACP barrels, but scrubbing with the chore boy is much faster and actually cheaper than buying the Lewis Lead Remover jags for each caliber.

Lou

chief38 · Apr 11, 2011

Just get a Lewis Lead Remover Tool and the lead will be gone in short order.

Chief38

lead in barrel - how big an issue?

suburbanman

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cptdco

k22fan

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suburbanman

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Alk8944

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m1gunner

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Lou_NC

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chief38

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