I just picked up my new S&W model 29,nickel plated 6.5" barrel the other day. Shot 50 rounds thru it and just love it. I was disappointed in the manual that came with it. Just a general S&W revolver manual with nothing specific to the 29. Almost nothing on the brake down and cleaning of it. I have several semi autos but this is my first real revolver other than a small 22. I would like to know how far the 44 should be broke down to clean properly and how to go about it. Anyone know of a good book or maybe a dvd on maintenance of S&W revolvers?
Cleaning a model 29
- Thread starter Dannlee
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bigggbbruce
Member
Cleaning a revolver is pretty simple. Scrubbing the bore and cylinder for the most part..
The fact that it is Nickel, caution must be taken on the choice of solvents used... Hoppe's contains ammonium which if left on the gun can cause damage to the finish.. can be used as I have used it on my 29 for years.. Just be sure to wipe clean.. no soaking..
every couple of cleanings I take the crane off the gun.. That is the part that swings out and holds the cylinder.. as oils and gunpowder residue build up in the center pin and extractor area.. this is done by removing the one screw farthest forward on the right side of the gun.. use a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.. carelessly done can scratch the gun and bugger the screw..
As far as pulling the sideplate I take mine off after many many rounds... it's not a big deal but care must be taken to be sure the hammer block is in the proper location and the edges of the sideplate can get damaged.. it usually is pretty clean, residue can enter where the hand fits in the frame slot... depends on how dirty the ammo you fire is.. how much will enter here...
With all that said... your skills will be your limiting factors on how far you want to go... I pull my guns down 100% but that's me.. Been a hobbiest watchmaker, mechanic and feel comfortable going in...
The fact that it is Nickel, caution must be taken on the choice of solvents used... Hoppe's contains ammonium which if left on the gun can cause damage to the finish.. can be used as I have used it on my 29 for years.. Just be sure to wipe clean.. no soaking..
every couple of cleanings I take the crane off the gun.. That is the part that swings out and holds the cylinder.. as oils and gunpowder residue build up in the center pin and extractor area.. this is done by removing the one screw farthest forward on the right side of the gun.. use a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.. carelessly done can scratch the gun and bugger the screw..
As far as pulling the sideplate I take mine off after many many rounds... it's not a big deal but care must be taken to be sure the hammer block is in the proper location and the edges of the sideplate can get damaged.. it usually is pretty clean, residue can enter where the hand fits in the frame slot... depends on how dirty the ammo you fire is.. how much will enter here...
With all that said... your skills will be your limiting factors on how far you want to go... I pull my guns down 100% but that's me.. Been a hobbiest watchmaker, mechanic and feel comfortable going in...
Titegroups
Member
On a revolver the internal mechanics are separated from where the cartridges are fired unlike a autoloader and stay cleaner longer, most of the powder residue stays on the outside where it's easy to clean. If you feel the need to disassemble the trigger mech. you might want to check youtube, also some gunsmithing screwdrivers are needed to do the job right.
Nemo288
Member
Unlike some, I have never felt the need to "break down" a revolver
for cleaning. I must say all mine are stainless so I have fewer worries
about damaging the finish or anything rusting due to benign neglect.
This does not mean I have never taken off a sideplate. I also repair
laptops and have done small electronics and mechanics for decades.
I just don't think it's necessary for the most part.
To clean I mount the gun in my gun cradle/vise using an old
t-shirt. First facing away with the cylinder open. I then chuck
a PLASTIC .44 or .45 brush in a bat-drill and put a solvent soaked
patch over the brush. At a fairly low speed I run the combination
into each cylinder hole holding the cylinder with the left hand to steady it.
For extra dirty cylinders you can use JB bore compound which will polish things up.
Repeat as necessary. Then with your short pistol rod and a plastic jag run a dry patch thru each hole/throat.
The face of the cylinder, I just wipe off with the cleaning compound
to remove the loose stuff. It will remain black.
Turn the gun around so you are looking down the business end
of the barrel. Make sure your rod has a bore guide on it. Mine
is aluminum but plastic is good too. This is to ensure to rod
does not touch the bore. Repeat the above but this time with just
a patch on the jag. You will find the best combination of cleaning
products that works for you. I use JB, Butch's Bore Shine, Barnes
CR-10 for heavy copper fouling and yeah, Hoppes.
"The S&W Revolver - A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen
is one of the best smithing books for the S&W but is sadly
out of print. If you can find a copy, pick it up. Since it was written
in 1985 it obviously will not cover more recent developments.
There are a couple of others out there but since I have this one I have
never looked at them.
---
Nemo
for cleaning. I must say all mine are stainless so I have fewer worries
about damaging the finish or anything rusting due to benign neglect.
This does not mean I have never taken off a sideplate. I also repair
laptops and have done small electronics and mechanics for decades.
I just don't think it's necessary for the most part.
To clean I mount the gun in my gun cradle/vise using an old
t-shirt. First facing away with the cylinder open. I then chuck
a PLASTIC .44 or .45 brush in a bat-drill and put a solvent soaked
patch over the brush. At a fairly low speed I run the combination
into each cylinder hole holding the cylinder with the left hand to steady it.
For extra dirty cylinders you can use JB bore compound which will polish things up.
Repeat as necessary. Then with your short pistol rod and a plastic jag run a dry patch thru each hole/throat.
The face of the cylinder, I just wipe off with the cleaning compound
to remove the loose stuff. It will remain black.
Turn the gun around so you are looking down the business end
of the barrel. Make sure your rod has a bore guide on it. Mine
is aluminum but plastic is good too. This is to ensure to rod
does not touch the bore. Repeat the above but this time with just
a patch on the jag. You will find the best combination of cleaning
products that works for you. I use JB, Butch's Bore Shine, Barnes
CR-10 for heavy copper fouling and yeah, Hoppes.
"The S&W Revolver - A Shop Manual" by Jerry Kuhnhausen
is one of the best smithing books for the S&W but is sadly
out of print. If you can find a copy, pick it up. Since it was written
in 1985 it obviously will not cover more recent developments.
There are a couple of others out there but since I have this one I have
never looked at them.
---
Nemo
Thanks for the tips. Sounds like I'm doing ok with a good cleaning of the bore and chamber. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I guess after a year or so I can think about breaking it down a little for a complete cleaning.
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