It has been really hot recently if you haven't noticed. I noticed the grip screw on my airweight j-frame was getting some rust, so I took it out and removed the rubber grip. Under the grip the was wormy pattern in the finish. I cleaned the gun and oiled it, but the wormy corrosion is permanent.

Westczek

The finish on my 642 was kaput about two weeks after I started carrying it.

I view it just as I do nicks on a hammer; it's a tool and subject to signs of use.

Be safe.

BIG D,

I do view it the same way you do, a tool. I was a little surprised at how quickly the bizarre etching happened. It will be something I keep and eye on. I am using wood grips now.

Westczek

I noticed mine has what looks like white sweat stains on the side of the cylinder. I tried to clean it off but you can still see a small spot.

my 637, and 638 finish went to cr** in like 6 mo. my 442 however is doing great. i have heard many complaints about this same problem. to bad, such nice little carrys...

Which model or finish do you have? I have a 442 with the blue finish and my grip screw also rusted a little around the head but I haven't noticed anything under the grips that won't wipe off with just a little Hoppe's solvent and the screw threads are fine.

russp1,

I have the 642, the light gray finish. Maybe the blue/black finish on the 442 is better.

Westczek

Sweat includes salt , water and other nasty stuff.
Salt + water + metal = corrosion.

I do understand corrosion on bare steel, blued steel or even stainless, but didn't expect the coating on the airweights to be penetrated in quite this way. I've learned. Here is a picture of my 642 for everyone's viewing pleasure.

Westczek

Attached Images

642finish.jpg (51.1 KB, 983 views)

The lock did it.

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Centennial Every Day

Damn lock...

Westczek

OMG, finally I'm not the only one with snail trails on the alloy finish. My original 637 had the same problem:





I always figured it must have been some kind of solvent that got into or under the clear coat finish. Whatever the finish is, it isn't very strong. I much prefer the 442's finish. I wish the 637 had an offer of the same like a 437.

On my 642 the finish started curdling shortly after I started carrying back 15-16 years ago. I sent it back to S&W once for a refinish which didn't hold up any better. Sweat got under the finish and severely corroded the left side of the frame. A while back I started trying to get the rest of the finish off of the alloy frame, because it seems to me the gray paint and clearcoat are worse than having no finish at all on the alloy. I believe the original issue 642 was just that; plain alloy on stainless steel and I wish S&W would just do that again.

But mine may not look like much but it will still do what it is supposed to do.

Sorry to hear you've got a finish problem. I wonder whether it
would have been a problem if you'd polished it with Ren. Wax first?
I hadn't considered doing that with the stocks off, do you think
it would have helped or maybe protected? Sweat is rough on stuff,
for sure. I've got one that I'm going to try it on. TACC1

Looks like typical Filiform Corrosion. Microscopic surface defects in the protective coating promote the formation, and threadlike propogation, of the corrosion under the coating.

If the aluminum was anodized rather than coated, it wouldnt be an issue.

I have had two stainless "J" frames with finish issues.
1. Model 638 with black marks on the frame under the grips.
a. contacted S&W Customer Service who had me send them
the weapon. Black marks turned out to be cracks.
Smith and Wesson replaced the weapon with a new one.

2. Model 642 with black pencil tip spots on the left frame.
a. contacted S&W Customer Service. weapon sent in. Weapon replaced with a new weapon. S&W would not advise me what the black spots were.

FWIW: I would not CCW with the weapon touching the bare skin. Body sweat is VERY corrosive.

I picked up an Airweight Ti 332 on the cheap because the frame surface around the laminated grips had basically been destroyed by this sort of "worm corrosion". I have no idea what caused it and, as this is a daily carry piece, I don't much care. I do have another pristine 332 that I expect would do the same if I carried it. I won't.

Oh no! The Brady bunch infected us with gun worms.

I carried an original early 80s uncoated stainless, alloy Model 642 with rubber stocks for many years in a hip pocket as a second gun. It got wet either due to snow, rain,sweat, and even immersion in salt water a few times when I had to go into the water to rescue accident victims. I never had a problem with any type of corrosion as I took care of the gun. I replaced it with a 342 in the mid 90s and did not have any corrosion issues with that gun either. In a humid environment your gun might need daily attention.

I think part of the problem is that many people assume stainless or alloy guns do not need care. All guns need to be stripped down if wet and cleaned off and properly lubed. I foolishly didn't remove the wood stocks on a stainless Colt 1911 for a few days after getting soaked in a rain storm. I found the beginnings of rust under the stocks a few days later when I tore the gun down for cleaning. My theory is that wood is worse than rubber as it will absorb moisture if not heavily oiled where as rubber does not.

Regarding the early 642 mentioned above, S&W told me that it was discontinued because of the difference in finish between the stainless cylinder and the uncoated duller alloy frame. It is a great gun and I still shoot it on occasion. A few years later they brought out the satin nickel 442s that had the peeling finish. I bought one for my son and S&W destroyed it when they tried getting the old nickel finish off but that's a whole 'nother story.

My J-frame M60-7 gets carried against my bare skin in the summer when I wear a Polo, "Hawaiian" or T-shirt and I have not had any issues with the finish. It rides in a Kramer Horsehide Scabbard and most of the gun is in the holster, so only the grip area really touches my skin, but still no rust of any type after 25 years. I do own an Airweight, but have never really carried it much because I prefer the heavier stainless steel version for use with the Buffalo Bore +P ammo I carry. Just about the only time I will carry the M37 is when I have to wear a suit & tie and like the lighter weight. I stoke that with standard pressure BB ammo.

Chief38

I had to look up Filiform Corrosion. Interesting!

Rubber grips are notorious for causing corrosion and rust on a daily-carry concealed handgun. When moisture from sweat accumulates under the rubber grip, it tends to stay there for a long while, since the rubber, unlike wood, will not absorb it, and it has plenty of time to work on corroding the metal.

is it just the finish that's breaking down (and if so does it even matter?), or is it the aluminium that's corroding and getting weaker?

be careful with wood grips, too... I have some exotic wood stocks by a well known maker (that I still buy from) and the tannins (?) bled out of them the first summer I had them and caused pitting on the stainless steel grip frame... this wasn't even a carry gun, happened sitting in my house!

noticed too that the grip maker doesn't use that species of wood anymore...

Would you care to share the wood you're refering to?

I think Jackson Pollack is haunting your revolver and it must be exorcized.

rosewood picazo

apparently they still use it for others grips, just no j-frames, right now at least

maybe the wood wasn't dried properly, I don't know, never made an issue of it

being the type of person that breaks a sweat reading a book or swimming, living in Fl, and likes leather holsters. I have similar problems. my edc is a 637-2 j frame and the wear esp on the top & grip strap is awful. that's why I carry that instead of the s/s 640 no dash with presentation grips that I much prefer but would not be happy if I got any marks on it. not only do I sweat thru my clothes and boots but also belts and holsters. carrying a gun of any finish in a leather holster that has absorbed salt is not a great idea and special care and treatment of the gun and belt/holster is needed. padded nylon isn't much better imo and I hate plastic, but gotta give props to the safariland drop down retention 3 thigh holster. mostly plastic & nylon it is comfortable, works very well but I still kinda feel a bit like a Mall Ninja even though I ONLY use it in the field.

I have had the same problem until I started using Renasance Wax on all of my guns. Not only do they look much better but they also are better protected. Also try a crossbreed holster. It protects the gun from touching your skin.

__________________
Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

MY 642 carried in pocket holster, has losts of finish speckles, edge wear, rusty grip screw, etc, but it has been carried daily for many years. Very acceptable wear, and great bug.

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the world is round everywhere

For those of you who have corrosion on your handgun, or any other important piece of metal equipment: ACF50 made by Lear Chemical Research is used in the aviation industry to halt corrosion, and is highly endorsed. I use it on my motorcycle frame to prevent winter corrosion from the salt compounds used on our roads. One application is good for 2 years.
ACF-50 ANTI-CORROSION BLOCK COMPOUND from Aircraft Spruce

The only way to avoid corrosive issues is to carry a plastic gun. I've had several J-frames develop the squigglies, but got over it quick since they are CCWs. Ultimately, it's a cosmetic issue not a mechanical one. Can it be annoying? Yes. Should it be a concern? No. Keep the area under the grip clean, dry, and coated with a thin layer of BreakFree/etc. and there shouldn't be any further corrosive problems.

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I'm with the banned ...

The clear coat on my 638 was chipping everywhere. I noticed that the areas where the aluminum was exposed was not reacting to my copious amounts of leg sweat so I used acetone and removed all the clear coat over a year ago and it looks great and I have no corrosion. Just saying, it seems like people think it will turn all white and corroded but this has been opposite of my experience.

Surfer

interesting grip SURFERDADDY

My 1982 Model 37 Airweight doesn't have any corrosion problems. Must be the nice, shiny, traditional nickel plating.

ECS

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CPT, Armor (Ret)
Luke 22:36

They are my ultimate pocket carry grips. They are not, however, fun to shoot with.

I have some scandium guns that i carry and shoot. At least three
of them exhibited rust on the thumbpiece, the back of the hammer and the back of the trigger. I popped the sideplates and nothing else had issues. My stainless and blued pieces showed no issues.But this is very strange: I have a black M and P 9mm auto that I shot a week ago. I did not wipe it down after shooting it.The gun sat in a drawer of a cabinet in a humid room(my dehumidifier broke) and a week later the "stainless" slide was full of rust. I cleaned all the guns and got a dehumidifier that dropped the humidity from the 80's to about 30. I wonder if I had wiped the guns,oiled them whether the humid room would have caused rust anyway.. I believe these guns got a double whammy: I did not wipe them down and put them in a humid room
Any thoughts on this?

__________________
Gun Control= Using Both Hands

I have never had a gun rust on me with the exception of a BB gun I abused as a boy. I once lent a shotgun and it came back a few days later rusted. Some people have acid or salt in their system and have more of a problem than others. I dont sweat. My wife makes up for that. For the last 50 years I have lived in the west, high desert etc. Outside of always wipeing down a gun after useing them with a oiled cloth I seldom clean them and havent had a problem. One or two I carry a lot and still havent had a problem with them. What amazed me was when I was a guard our guns were carried 24/7 by many guards. They were transferred from holster to holster at least three times a day. Out of hundreds of them I never seen a rusted one. Some were colt offical polices from the early 1950s.