I would like to keep my CCW weapon functioning flawlessly. A lot has changed since I was first exposed to that wonder substance CLP.

What lubricates slides the best? Breakfree. MPro 7 LPX, Militec, or Fp10?

Your thoughts please?

I have heard brakefree is what the military uses. I clean with it then spay it again then I take the time to try to remove it all. so I more or less run my gun dry.
Cracker57

I generally clean with Breakfree CLP, then lube with Breakfree LP, which, from what I understand, is the same as the CLP without the solvent.

The LP was supposedly developed for our Military's automatic cannons.

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Ogy

Call me old fashioned, but I'm still using Rem Oil for most of my gun lubricating needs. The guns I use the most are used/torn down/cleaned/lubed so often, that I've just never seen the need for anything more. Most firearms require so little lubricant anyway, that nearly any quality lube will provide perfectly adequate lubricity to bearing surfaces and other moving parts.

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NRA Pistol,PPITH,PPOTH&TASER

When I asked my Pistolsmith what he recommended, he said essentially what you did, finishing up with, "Mobil 1 works good."

The main reason I'm currently using the Breakfree LP is because I found it at less than half off the regular price, which I never bought any at, and laid in a very long term supply. I like the idea that it's from the same family as the CLP so they should have good compatibility with each other.

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Ogy

Mobil 1 does work good. However price doesn't bother me too much. My guns are not only tools but investments also. So I use a lube and a grease.

I use Tetra Gun, Gun Butter, and sometimes Pro Gold. I really like the Gun Butter because it's easy to apply.

I used to use CLP until I noticed that it completely dissipated when the barrel got hot.

I know guys that still use good ole Hoppes and nothing else.

I've used Break Free CLP as a cleaner and lube pretty much from the time I started getting into shooting over 15 years ago and never had any issues with it.

Having said that, I have tried other products. I liked Tetra Gun. I used the grease on slide rails and lockwork, oil on the rest of the gun. It worked well for me. Last year I started using Gun Butter oil on my Glock 23 before I sold it and it worked well for me. I use it to lube my revolvers now because the needle applicator makes it easier to get lube where I need it. I still use CLP for cleaning, though.

I really want to try Lubriplate, but I still have enough lube on hand to last a while so I just haven't felt the need to get some.

I haven't tried it, at least not yet, but I've read that ATF works pretty good as a gun lubricant.

I think as long as you use a good quality lube and don't over-do it you'll be fine with whatever you choose.

Another vote for CLP.

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Hold my beer and watch this!

Mobil 1 hasn't failed me yet.

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-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Gunsmiths have been known to use plain ole' 3 in 1 oil too.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

I've switched from synthetic oil to Weapons Shield oil and grease on all my semi auto pistols and have noticed zero wear since. I was seeing some rail wear on the aluminum frame S&W's with synthetic oil alone.

On revolvers Weapons Shield oil seems to make clean up a bit easier, though I still use some synthetic gun oil too.

CLP only gets used for cleaning these days.

I’m curious how many people have alloy frame with wear from actual use of steel on alloy…

OR

Have wear from dirty lube acting as lapping compound on the two surfaces.

There are a few guns out there that have poly rails as part of the frame. The Ruger P95 seems to have no issue with its poly rails. The Remington 66’s all seem to be nice and tight all these years later. And the poly should be far easier to tear up than any alloy or steel. I say this because I see so many people that use way too much lube on their guns and then there are the guys that don’t want to clean their guns after use and say that over cleaning wear them out…

At this point in my life I find that if rails aren’t functioning very well it’s due to an improper fit and no lube will change that. It may make it function better but the lube isn’t the problem, it’s the band-aid on the boo boo.

So keep your guns clean and if you need lube then leave a thin minimalist film behind. Slides aren’t trying to pull up and away from frames; they are forced backwards with minimal up or downward pressure. Thus the thin and wimpy looking frame rails on Glocks last forever and Ruger can use plastic rails in its P95’s and those are still one of Ruger’s bread and butter guns. So if your gun needs some superior lube in order to function then your gun may have problems, not your lube or lack of it.

And FWIW, I use either Dexron ATF or Eezox on everything I own. No rust, no issues.

I also use CLP for cleaning, and Eezox for final touch. It is also a cleaner, but a good lube, too. I even dampened a rag with Eezox, keep it in my bag in a zip-loc bag, and after I shoot at the range just wipe the whole gun down with it. If my pistols are really dirty I will use the CLP, then Hoppes, and if I do it that thoroughly I usually put a little Outers oil on the slide. No reason, just made sense to me one day. But Eezox is used most- in fact time to get a new bottle.

CLP and silicone works for me. Lately I've tried Hornady One Shot, esp. on my reloading press and dies. Leaves a dry coating that seems to stay cleaner longer. Most of these products seem to work, we just need to remember to use them as often as necessary.

I use Weapon Shield CLP, which is the evolved FP-10, for total gun care. I have not found a better product. Bill

MPro7 to clean and RemOil for lube.

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Centennial Every Day

Frog lube on the auto's and Remoil on the revolvers

Stick to the MPRO 7 entire line of cleaners and lubricants. I have been using their products for years and as LE Armorer, I used it for the State guns. If the military uses it on the .50 cal and aircraft, you know it works darn good. Follow the instructions on their guide and you can't go wrong. What ever works best for you and you are happy with it.

Nick

When my TriFlon runs out, I'll change to Break Free.
Triflon makes the insides of the barrel like a non stick fry pan.
A shame it's no longer made.

It's still made. Google TriFlow or such. I think you can get a hold of it.

Blue Wonder has rec'd some acclaim. It offers great protection in FL humidity.

I too am a user of RemOil

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Hook686

I clean with Hoppes 9 then spray with Rem Oil, wipe off excess, and Shooter Choice grease on rails of my semi-autos.

I recall a test a few years ago where a writer did a test immersing a nail in a salt water solution. The nail was first coated with different lubricants, including the new wonder lubes. Breakfree CLP won hands down.

Not to be a smart*** but I sure hope you're not immersing you guns in saltwater often! Seriously, I have used Hoppes for 20+years and have no problems.

As long as you keep it lubed it will slide. Just keep it clean.

CLP but also a touch of shooter choice on the hard wear areas

When I used to go to the Grand American trap shoot in Ohio I used to see The top shooters using a product called Super Lube on their Trap guns. I started to use it after seeing that . If it's good enough for $30,000 trap guns then it's good enough for a $2500.00 Browning.I've used it on every gun I own, From the inside of a pre 18 to my 1911 this is some great stuff. As I'm typing this my Sig P229 .40 S&W sits beside me with its rails lubed with Super lube, 3000 rounds down the tube and not a sign of wear on the rails. No way I'm ever going to change, and if you like a clear grease over a oil this is a product you might want to try.

About 30 some-odd years ago I stumbled onto a product that I have stuck with. I have tried all the new lubes, cleaners and preservatives as they come onto the market, and still find it to be the best of what is out there. That product is RIG #2 Oil - NOT to be confused with their famous RIG Universal Grease which is TOPS for preservation & rust prevention.

The RIG product line was recently sold to Birchwood - Casey and is now available once again after a year's absence from the market.

The product is truly EXCELLENT at cleaning, lubrication and preventing rust. It is similar to Remoil, although I actually think it is better. The product's carrier evaporates soon after application and leaves behind it's rust prevention and lubricant so that you don't get an oily residue on the gun. The Rig will NOT attract dirt, dust or particles, and will not hurt a wood finish if it gets on it. It actually smells pleasant as an added bonus, and is low on the toxicity listings.

I have a cabinet full of CLP, Tri-Flow, Hoppes, Remoil, Outers, G96, Kroil, Ezox, Miltec, S&W, Shooter's Choice, etc. and the RIG #2 is STILL my go-to gun product. I also use the stuff all around the house fro anything that squeaks, sticks, or needs lubrication. Love the stuff!!

Chief38

SLIP 725 to clean, SLIP EWL to lube. Non-toxic, first quality.

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NHI, 10-8.

My gunsmith swears by and has used Eezox synthetic lube in his shop for years. He says not to use it in combination w other lubes as it will just stiffen up the works.

Dan Wesson shooters seem to like to lube their revolvers with ATF.

I tried ATF but it left a puddle on the garage floor and slipped between the second and third rounds.

Actually, I used all sorts of products: fancy, high dollar "gun" brands; auto; marine; etc.; and the only product that was a dismal failure was WD-40. Routine maintenance with all others will work fine.

That's hilarious to me, because Breakfree CLP is some of the worst liquid I have put on my guns (intentionally...) especially when it comes to rust prevention. I just seems to...evaporate off of the gun. I have also tried the kind with no solvent...same issues.

I have had numerous people talk of similar experiences. Whenever I talk with military persons, I generally try to ask how their CLP performed. Most of them hate it...but it's all they had. One gentleman told me that they kept it in a spray bottle (like a windex bottle) and they would douse their .50 cal bolts in it after every belt of ammo (just squirt the top of the bolt with the feed-cover open), because it would evaporate from the heat quickly.

I really apologize, but in my usage and research, Breakfree CLP is some of the worst poo imaginable. If it works for you, I am glad, really. I just hate to see people defend it because "the military uses it" when they haven't even tried the stuff (or they haven't tried it properly). GyMac, I am not saying that is the case with you, man. I see it a lot on other forums.

Most sense I have heard in a lube thread in a long time.

There is already a Froglube thread elsewhere on this forum, but anyone been using it. From my little bit of usage I love the stuff.

I personally prefer to clean and then lube in two seperate steps, but dealing with an agency full of cops years ago I discovered they will either tend to not lube at all (thinking the Hoppes film will suffice) or lube the snot out their guns. I thus switched to Breakfree CLP, knowing that provided they shook it up first, there would at least be 'some' lube on the gun. Currently, I use Slip2000EWL for most lube jobs...brilliant product.

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Run Fast, Bite Hard!

Have you given your froglubed guns a good testing by chance?

I have a M&P9 with about 1300 rounds through it. No cleaning after the initial Froglubing. It does NOT...reapeat...NOT feel like it looks. The action is incredibly smooth. No gritty feel at all. I am impressed.

Edit -- I should point out that MOST of that 1300 rounds was Wolf. Probably the first 800 or so. The rest was Aquila.

Slide Glide in warm weather, Mobile 1, or, FP10 when it's colder.

I'm a life long fan of good ole Hoppes... and in recent years I've added RemOil... although the RemOil just doesn't draw the ladies like Hoppes!

Blessings,
Hog

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Isaiah 55:8-9
Phil. 4:13

Nowdays I prefer Rem oil, but have used CLP and gun butter. I clean with Hoppes elite, patch everything clean then apply a thin coat of rem oil and wipe off most of it leaving a tiny bit behind.

I use Mobile One for cleaning and lubrication. On the bore, I put the oil on the bore brush. On the frame, oil on a nylon brush. On the cylinder, I use a brass brush. The scorching, powder residue and fowling comes off very easily. I use Mobile One for lubing the rails of my semi-autos and any metal to metal contact on any gun.

The article from the Grant Cunningham website may offer some useful information.

GrantCunningham.com - Library

You're going to spoil that gun...!

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NRA Life Member

I used different lubes in different areas ... trigger group gets a silicone lube as it seems to avoid gumming up rather well, Slides and rails I'll grease with a a moly grease. all non wear points get a wipe down with any machine oil on hand.

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it just needs more voltage

I've found many good lubes. The main thing is to use them. I have friends that very seldom lube the slide on their semi-auto and it will fail to extract and when I checked them the frame and slide were dry. A lot of lubes just dry out over time.

Nah. It's just a tool to me.

Strange this thread should appear just now since I just bought a tube of the Pro Gold. Main concensus here seems to be Mobil 1. I may try this also. What weight do you guys use. I also have rem oil but it seems to dry out rather quickly.

Gun butter...use sparingly...the bottle will last forever and your gun will thank you.

If I could have only one lube it would be BreakFree.

In high dust conditions Prolix is great stuff.

In highly wet conditions, Ballistol works great, it has been around since the early 1900's. The German Army used it in WWI, and WWII.

If you need a grease, then Prolix Xtra-T Lube, or Tetra Gun Grease is worth using.

All this talk about wet lubes! Nobody has even mentioned dry lubes! I use a type of molydunum disulfide(sp?) powder called "Moly-Lube" Discovered it years ago when having industrial lubrication failures on machinery. It works great at all temps!